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THE SUBURBAN 
GARDEN GUIDE 



Compiled by 

PARKER THAYER BARNES 




THE SUBURBAN PRESS, Publishers 

NEW YORK HARRISBURG, PA. CHICAGO 

All rights reserved 



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V 



Copyright, 19 ii 
By the suburban PRESS 



JItSount l^UaMnt Press 

J. Horace McFarland Company 

Harrisburg, Penna. 



©CI.A28a457 



CONTENTS 



Planting Time-Tables for Vegetables 

The Best Vegetables for the Home Garden 

(Varieties to Grow and How to Do It) 

Planting Time-Tables for Flowers 

The Best Flowers for the Home Garden 

(Kinds to Grow and How to Do It) 

How and When to Spray 
In the Fruit Garden 
In the Vegetable Garden 
In the Flower Garden 
Shade Trees and Shrubs 

Spraying Formulas 

Insecticides for Chewing Insects 
Insecticides for Sucking Insects 
Fungicides .... 

Fertilizing the Small Garden 

Planting Tables for Bulbs 



PAGE 

5-6 
7-16 



17-20 
21-32 

33-59 
33-41 
42-48 

49-53 

53-55 

56-59 
56 
57 
59 

60-62 
63-64 



Note. — The alphabetical arrangement of tlie text is so simple that an 
elaborate index has not been deemed necessary. 



PLANTING TIME-TABLES FOR 
VEGETABLES 

(Allow ten days for every 100 miles north or south of New York) 



Variety 



Artichoke, Globe . 

Asparagus 

Beans, Broad 

Beans, Bush Lima 
Beans, Pole Lima 

Beans, Wax 

Beans, Pole 

Beets 

Broccoli 

Brussels Sprouts . 

Cabbage 

Cardoon 

Carrot 

Cauliflower 

Celery 

Chard, Swiss 

Corn 

Corn Salad 

Cress 

Cucumber 

Dandelion 

Eggplant 

Endive 

Kale 

Kohlrabi 



When to Sow 



Indoors 



Outdoors 



February 



Feb., Mar. 



February 



April 



March 



Feb., Mar. 



April 
Mar., April 

May 

May 
May-Aug. 

May 
April-Aug. 

April 
April, May 
May, June 
May, June 
April-July 



April, May 

April 
May, June 
April-Aug. 
April-July 
May-July 

April 



Seed Necessary- 



How Deep to 
Plant (inches) 

R., roots. 

S., seeds 



April-Sept. 

May 
May, June 



I ounce for 500 

plants 
I oz. for 50 ft. 

I qt. for 100 ft. 

I qt. for 100 ft. 

iqt.for loohills 

I qt. for 100 ft 

I qt. for 100 hills 

I oz. for 50 ft 

I ounce for i ,000 

plants 
1 ounce for 1,500 

plants 
I ounce for 1,500 

plants 
I ounce for 300 

plants 
I oz. for 100 ft. 

I ounce fori ,000 

plants 
I ounce for 3,000 

plants 
I oz. for 50 ft. 

I qt. for 100 hills 

I oz. for 100 ft. 

I oz. for 50 ft. 

I ounce to 50 

hills 
I oz. for 1,000 

plants 
I oz. for 1,000 

plants 
I oz. for 150 ft. 

I oz. for 150 ft. 

I oz. for 200 ft. 



S. I 
R. 6 



1% 






Thin or 

transplant to 

(inches) 



24 X 36 

24 X 36 

12 X 24 

6 X 12 

36 X 36 

12 X 24 

36 X 36 

9X 18 

24 X 36 

18 X 36 

24 X 36 

24 X 36 

6x 18 

24 X 18 

6 x 48 

9 X 24 

36 X 36 

6x6 

3x6 

36 x 36 

12 X 18 

36 X 36 

12 X 12 
12 X 18 
12 X 24 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

PLANTING TIME-TABLES FOR VEGETABLES, continued 



Variety 



When to Sow 



Indoors 



Lettuce Feb. , Mar. 

Lettuce, Romain 

Melon, Musk April 

Melon, Water 

Mustard ' 

Okra March 

Onion I February 

Parsley 

Parsnip 

Peas 

Peas, Sugar . 

Pepper 

Potato 

Pumpkin 

Radish 

Rampion 

Rhubarb 

Salsify 

Spinach 



Spinach, New 

Zealand 

Squash 



Tomato 

Turnip 

Vegetable Marrow 



March 



Feb., Mar. 



March 
Feb. -April 



Outdoors 



Apr. -Aug. i 
April-July 
May, June 

May 
April, May 

May 

April 

April 

April 
Mar. -June 

April 



April, May 
May, June 
Apr-Sept. 

May 
Sept., Oct. 

April 

Mar.-May, 
October 

May 
May, June 



Apr. -Aug. 
May, June 



""™?^^C'° Thin or 
Seed Necessary j r ^'oots ' Tiansplant 
S.',' seeds I to (ii.ches) 



I oz. for i2oft. 

I oz. for lOo ft. 

I oz. for 60 hills 

I oz. for 30 hills 

I oz. for 80 ft. 

I oz. for 400 

plants 

S.,ioz.for 100 ft 

R., I qt. for 50 ft 

I oz. for 150 ft. 

I oz. for 200 ft. 

I qt. for 100 ft. 

I cjt. for 100 ft. 



% 

S. % 
R. 2 

% 

3 



I oz. for 2,000 
plants 
I pk.for loohills 2, early 

5, late 
I oz. for 30 hills! i "% 



I oz. for 100 ft. 

I oz. for 200 

plants 
t root a plant 

I oz. for 75 ft. 

I oz. for 100 ft. 



I oz. for 100 ft. 
I oz. for50 hills 

I oz. for 1,000 

plants 
I oz. for 150 ft. 

I oz. for 50 hills 



R. 4 



8 X 24 

8 X 24 

60 X 60 

60 X 60 

1x6 

18 X 24 

12 X 24 
6 X 24 
6x12 

6 X 24 

4x36 
4x36 
18 X 36 

12 X 24 

18 X 36 
108 X 108 

3x8 

3x8 

48 X48 

6x8 
6x 18 



12 X 24 
Bush, 36x48 
Late, 72 X 96 

36 X 48 

4 X 18 

8x 30 

36 X 48 



. THE BEST VEGETABLES FOR THE 
HOME GARDEN 

ARTICHOKE, GLOBE. A tall-growing vegetable which is 
grown for its flower-heads. It can be raised from seed or from 
suckers, the latter being the usual method, because then one 
is able to perpetuate good varieties. The varieties do not come 
true to name when grown from seed. Seeds sown one year 
will produce good llower-heads the following year; they can 
sometimes be had the same year by sowing the seed early 
indoors. The flower-heads are gathered just before the blue 
flowers begin to appear. The part eaten consists of the fleshy 
portion on the inside of the large outer scales and the " bot- 
tom," or receptacle, of the head. 

Grow the artichoke in rich soil. It will bear for two or three 
years. Give it slight protection over winter. French Globe is 
a standard sort. The Jerusalem artichoke is grown for its root. 

ASPARAGUS. This vegetable is grown for its young shoots, 
and the quality depends upon the succulence of them. To get 
the best shoots, plant one-year-old roots and allow them to 
become well established before cutting begins; they should grow 
two full years before cutting. Grow asparagus in a light, rich, 
and well-drained soil, to secure the best and earhest results. 
Stop cutting the shoots when peas become ripe — June 25 in the 
North. Cut off the stalks in the fall before the seeds mature 
(berries turn red), so that stray seedlings will not appear be- 
tween the rows. Mulch heavily in the fall with manure. In 
the spring, use nitrate of soda. Conover's Colossal, Barr's 
Mammoth, and Palmetto, are the best green varieties. Mam- 
moth white has white stalks. 

BEANS, BROAD. But few people know this vegetable in 
this country, but it is highly appreciated in England. It is 
used as a shell-bean. They are as hardy as peas, but will not 
succeed in hot climates, and they are subject to bad attacks of 
the flea-beetle. Early Mazagan and Broad Windsor are stand- 
ard sorts. When the pods have formed, break off the tops, to 
force the strength into the pods. 



g THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

BEANS, BUSH LIMA. These are two to four weeks ear- 
lier than the pole limas. There are three types. Dwarf Sieva, 
or Henderson's Bush Lima, is the earhest, but has small pods. 
The young beans, however, are delicious. Wood's Prolific, or 
the Improved Henderson, is a week later, and is a stronger 
grower and the pods are a little larger. The third type is Bur- 
pee's Bush Lima, which, while being dwarf, has large, broad 
pods, like the pole sorts. 

The seedsmen have improved these original sorts, so that 
better or earlier forms can be had under such names as Burpee's 
Quarter Century, Dreer's Wonder, Kumerle, Fordhook. All 
limas are ultra-tropical plants, so must not be planted until the 
ground is warm. Set the seeds on edge in the ground. Do not 
use strong nitrogenous manures in the spring; use, rather, phos- 
phoric acid and potash. Nitrogen causes too much growth, and 
retards the season. 

BEANS, POLE LIMA. Later than the dwarf sorts. The 
earliest of the tall ones is the Sieva, which has three-inch pods, 
each pod with three beans. They are delicious if picked before 
they have reached full size. Large White, Early Leviathan, 
Early Jersey, King of the Garden, Ford's Mammoth Podded, 
are all good varieties. The last two are late, but have pods 
five inches long. For fall use, plant Potato-leaved or Chal- 
lenger. These do better in cool weather. Use poles ten feet 
long. In cool seasons, when the plants are making more growth 
than pods, cut the tops of the plants off when they reach the 
top of the pole, so that there will be more beans produced. 

BEANS, BUSH. There are green and yellow beans. Bur- 
pee's Stringless Green Pod, Improved Round Valentine, Giant 
Stringless Valentine, Extra-Early Refugee, and Refugee or i,ooo 
to I, are standard green-podded sorts, and mature in the order 
given. A good succession can be had by planting at the same 
time Burpee's Stringless Green Pod, Extra-Early Refugee, and 
I, GOO to I. They will produce for two to four weeks after the 
first comes into bearing, and one or two further plantings of 
these varieties, ten days or two weeks apart, will maintain a 
succession all summer. For the best beans, grow round-podded 
and stringless sorts. 

Of the yellow, or wax beans, Burpee's White Wax, Kidney 



VEGETABLES FOR THE HOME GARDEN 9 

Wax, Rust-proof Wax, and Golden Wax, are all good varieties, 
but the first is probably the best. These are flat-podded. Pen- 
cil-Pod Black and Brittle Wax are two round-podded varieties 
that require seven to eight weeks to bear, but are good in 
appearance and flavor. 

BEANS, POLE. These are used either as snap-beans, or as 
shell-beans used green. White Creaseback (green) is the earli- 
est. It requires eight to ten weeks to mature. Other good 
varieties, maturing in about the following order, are White 
Dutch Caseknife (green and best for cool situations). Old Home- 
stead or Kentucky Wonder (green), Stringless Green-pod (green). 
Golden Cluster Wax (yellow), Sunshine Wax (yellow). Golden 
Carmine Horticultural (yellow, and the best of the yellow kinds), 
Lazy Wife, a popular and very prolific sort; the last is a fall 
bean. The yellow kinds are the best for the hot summer 
months. Plant a few hills of each for testing. You will know 
better, then, what kinds suit your particular needs. 

BEETS. Egyptian, Eclipse, and Edmund's, mature in the 
order given. Beets are better when young and tender; so, make 
sowings a couple of weeks apart. The thinnings can be used 
for " greens." 

BROCCOLI. This is really nothing but a longer-seasoned 
and later-maturing cauliflower, but better adapted than it for 
the cool North. Early White, Mammoth White, and Purple 
Cape, are good varieties. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS. Little cabbages that grow thickly 
clustered together on a tall stalk. It is a late-fall and winter 
vegetable, that is best after it has been touched by frost. It 
can be left outdoors during the winter, if protected by corn- 
stalks or straw. It requires the same treatment as late cabbage. 
Grows two to three feet high, but there are dwarf varieties. 
Long Island, Dalkeith, Half-dwarf, are good varieties. Good 
seed is essential. The stocks soon deteriorate unless carefully 
selected. 

CABBAGE. Early Jersey Wakefield is the best early sort. 
The head is smaller than the late sorts, so can be planted closer 



lo THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

together. All Head is a good intermediate variety, and Late 
Flat Dutch a good late variety. Early cabbages are started 
in the fall and carried over the winter in coldframes, or they 
can be started in February in the greenhouse and hardened- 
off before planting out. The late varieties can be started in 
seed-beds outdoors. Do not water the cabbages after they have 
matured, it will cause the plants to grow more and will split 
the heads. They will not keep then. 

CARDOON. Similar to the Globe artichoke. It is too 
large a vegetable for the small garden, and valuable only where 
a very large variety is wanted. The leaves are gathered together 
and the earth drawn around the stalks to blanch them, like 
celery; unblanched, it is not fit to eat. Large Spanish and 
Large Solid are two good varieties. It needs a rich soil. 

CARROT. Like beets, they are best when young and tender. 
Grow Early Forcing, making several sowings for succession. 
For larger roots, plant Danvers or similar varieties. 

CAULIFLOWER. The culture is the same as for cabbage, 
but cauliflower demands, if it be grown successfully, cool, moist 
weather. Plan an early crop, one that will mature before the 
hot weather, and a late fall crop. Earliest Dwarf Erfurt is the 
best early. For cool climates, plant Early Snowball and Algiers 
for second-early and main crop, respectively. In warmer sec- 
tions, make successive sowings of Earliest Dwarf Erfurt. It 
requires a moist, cool, and rich soil. 

CELERY. A leaf crop that requires a rich soil — one in 
which there is much nitrogen. Grow in trenches, so that it 
can be easily banked up for blanching. It can also be blanched 
by boards or paper placed closely about it to exclude the light; 
but earth-blanched celery has the most flavor. Early varieties 
can be blanched by planting close together in a coldframe and 
putting a shutter over the frame, to blanch. White Plume is the 
best early variety. Golden Self-blanching is nearly as early, 
and equally good, some people prefer it to White Plume. For 
main crop, grow Boston Market, a small variety with a very 
nutty flavor, and Giant Pascal, a larger, tender, sort. Give 
ait abundance of nitrate of soda. -.,:.... ■,.'■■. 



VEGETABLES FOR THE HOME GARDEN ii 

CHARD, SWISS. A beet that does not produce a large 
root. The leaves only are eaten. It can be served as beet 
"greens," or the mid-rib can be removed and served as aspar- 
agus. A fifteen-foot row will supply a family of three. When 
the leaves are cut off, a new supply is formed. There is no 
choice as to varieties, all are good. 

CORN. Peep O'Day, Golden Bantam, Crosby's twelve- 
rowed, and Stowell's Evergreen, or Country Gentleman, will 
insure a succession; they will mature in the order named. 
See article on Sweet Corn in March, 191 1, " Suburban Life." 

CORN SALAD. Grown as a fall salad, and can be used as 
a substitute for lettuce, but it is not nearly so good. 

CRESS. Water cress can be grown in any small stream of 
water, or in soil kept constantly damp. Upland or curled 
cress can be grown in the garden or in " flats " in a frame. 
Make frequent sowings (once in 2 weeks). It gives piquancy 
to a salad. 

CUCUMBERS. For an early crop, grow Early White Spine; 
second early. Cool and Crisp; for main crop, Long Green. 
Start a few plants indoors on inverted sod or in pots, for the 
earliest crop. Seed sown July i will produce fruits large 
enough for pickling by fall. 

DANDELION. A pot-herb, or " green." They can be 
blanched and served as a salad. French Garden, Thick-leaved, 
and Large-leaved, are good sorts. Seeds sown any time up 
to June will be ready to cut the following spring. Needs rich 
land and nitrogenous manures. 

EGGPLANT. A hot-climate plant, which must never 
receive checks during its growth. Start early indoors, and pro- 
vide a fairly rich, well-drained soil, and a long season in which 
to grow. New York Improved and Black Pekin are the best 
varieties. Fruits are ready to eat when one-third grown. 

• ENDIVE. A substitute for lettuce, and is essentially a sum- 
mer and fall crop. It will thrive when lettuce will not succeed 



12 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

because of hot weather. Requires the same culture as lettuce. 
Blanch the interior leaves by gathering all the leaves into a 
bunch and tying them with string or raffia at the top. This 
is done two or three weeks before it is wanted for use. The 
crowns will sometimes rot when tied up for blanching, if the 
weather is rainy or continues cloudy for some time. It must 
be used as soon as blanched. Late fall plants can be stored 
and blanched in the cellar or pits. Make successive sowings 
every two weeks. For varieties, grow White Curled, Green 
Curled, or Broad-leaved. 

KALE. The culture is similar to that of cabbage, but the 
plants are hardier and require less attention. It is grown for 
its leaves, which are used as a pot-herb. It is used only very 
late in the fall and early spring, when other pot-herbs are not 
available. It is not injured by frost, so can be left in the field 
all winter. The older leaves and leafstalks are all improved 
by freezing. Good varieties are Dwarf Green Curled Scotch, 
Dwarf Curled Brown. Sow Siberian in September for early 
spring " greens." 

KOHLRABI. Although almost unknown in some sections, 
it is highly prized in others. It is grown for its tuberous stem, 
— a turnip-like tuber which is produced just above the surface 
of the soil. It must be used before the tubers become too 
large and stringy (three inches in diameter). They must be 
grown quickly and receive no check, otherwise they will be 
tough and bitter. For early crops, sow in frames Short-leaved 
Vienna. For main crop, Early White Vienna. This latter is 
the kind grown by market-gardeners. 

LETTUCE. Grown for salad, and it is a cool, short-season 
crop which is usually grown as a successional or companion 
crop. Requires a moist, rich, friable loam and quick-acting 
fertilizers, mostly nitrogen. There are three kinds — loose- 
headed, of which Grand Rapids is the type; head, or cabbage 
lettuce, and Romain or Cos. For the earliest lettuce, grow 
Grand Rapids; for main crop outdoors, grow heat-resisting 
varieties, such as Deacon, Hanson, Summer Cabbage Curled 
Simpson, Salamander. In midsummer, protect it during 
midday from the hot sun. Express Cos, Trianon Cos, are the 



VEGETABLES FOR THE HOME GARDEN 13 

best of the Romain lettuces. Some of them will form a suffi- 
ciently compact head to blanch themselves, but it is better to 
tie the leaves together to insure blanching. The Cos lettuces 
are the crispest and, in some respects, the best lettuces. 

MELONS, MUSK, or, as they are sometimes erroneously 
called, cantaloupes. Cantaloupes have hard, warty rinds, and 
are seldom grown in this country, although the name is fre- 
quently used. Light, moist soil— one in which there is always 
much soil moisture, but still good drainage — will prove the 
best for melons. Three to four good fruits per plant is the 
usual yield. For early, grow Netted Gem (Rocky Ford is a 
selection from this, made famous by being grown at the town 
of that name in Colorado). For second-early, grow Emerald 
Gem, and for main crop, Long Island Beauty. 

MELONS, WATER,. The cultural requirements are the same 
as for muskmelons. Early Fordhook is the best early, while 
Cole's Early is the best second-early and main-crop melon. 

MUSTARD adds a pleasant, pungent flavor to salads. 
Make successive sowings every ten days or two weeks. Good 
varieties are Chinese and White London. 

OKRA. This is the vegetable used in making the famous 
gumbo soups of the South. It is a warm-weather plant. There 
are two kinds, tall and dwarf, the latter being the best for 
home gardens. Grow Dwarf Green Long Pod and Lady Fin- 
ger or White Louisiana. The pods of the former should be 
picked when two to four inches long, the latter, when four to 
five inches long; do not allow the pods to stay on longer. If 
there are too many for immediate use, gather and dry them. 
Gather the pods daily, preferably in the evening. 

ONION. For the earliest sorts, plant onion sets. For main 
crop, Danvers or White Globe. Prizetaker onion was the first 
big onion grown in this country. Since its introduction, in 1888, 
there have been others, notably Ailsa Craig. These onions 
frequently weigh one pound or more. To be had at their best, 
they should be started early indoors and transplanted. For 
success, grow onions in a loose, friable loam that is rich and 



14 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

free from stones. It must be finely prepared, all stones and 
lumps being removed. 

PARSLEY. The most popular herb for garnishing. It is a 
biennial, the foliage being used the first year; the plant being 
destroyed at the end of the season and new started for next 
year. The seeds germinate very slowly unless soaked for 
twenty-four hours in lukewarm water. It requires three months 
from sowing to get plants of sufl&cient size to allow the picking 
of the leaves. Moss-Curled and Fern-leaved are the best vari- 
eties. Hamburg, or Turnip-rooted, has a fleshy root. 

PARSNIP. To be good, they should stay in the ground 
over-winter, but they can be harvested and stored in earth in 
a cool cellar or pit; the roots must not shrivel; if stored inside, 
the quality will be injured. Hollow Crown and Student are 
two standard varieties. 

PEAS are hardy; they may be sown in the spring as soon 
as the ground can be worked. The ground should be deeply 
worked. English gardeners frequently work it three feet deep 
and find that it pays. Make successional plantings every six to 
ten days. For the earliest crop, sow a smooth variety, such 
as Daniel O'Rourke; a week later, when the ground has warmed 
up a little, wrinkled varieties, which are sweeter, can be sown. 
For second early, plant Nott's Excelsior; for main crop. Cham- 
pion of England. An early variety for very late peas can be 
sown in August. Too much nitrogen will cause the plants to 
make too much growth and too little fruit. 

PEAS, SUGAR. These are edible-podded peas, which are 
picked while the pea or seed is still small and the pod tender. 
They are broken up, cooked and served like string-beans. 

PEPPER. Needs the same culture as tomato. Do not 
plant them out until all danger of frost has passed. For the 
earliest fruits, plant Neapolitan. Bull Nose and Ruby King 
are two good main crops. 

POTATOES. To get the earliest potatoes, sprout the seed, 
put them in a warm, light place, so that the sprouts can grow; 



VEGETABLES FOR THE HOME GARDEN 15 

they may be as much as three inches long without harm. Early 
Rose is a good early variety; for second early, Beauty of Hebron; 
for main crop, Carman No. i and Green Mountain. The variety 
to be grown will depend somewhat on the character of the soil. 

PUMPKIN. Two good varieties for pies are Sugar and 
Dunkard. They must be stored in a warm (45°) dry place, or 
they will rot. Plant among the corn, to save room. 

RADISH. Can be had in twenty-one days. Sow as soon 
as the ground can be worked, and make successional sowings 
every week all summer. For early, plant Early Scarlet Tur- 
nip Forcing; for second early, French Breakfast and Long 
Scarlet. For storing for winter, sow seeds in June of Half-long 
Black Spanish. Store these in damp sand. 

RAMPION. Roots can be eaten like radish, or the leaves 
can be used as salads. Store the roots in damp sand in the 
cellar. 

RHUBARB. The quality depends upon its size and succu- 
lence, therefore the soil must be rich. A plantation will last 
twenty years or more. Linnaeus, Victoria, St. Martin's, are 
good kinds. To get the earliest stalks, put a barrel over a 
root and place manure about it. 

SALSIFY. A hardy vegetable for flavoring soups, and may 
also be served as parsnips are. Long White and Sandwich 
Island Mammoth are good varieties. Store over winter in sand 
in the cellar. 

SPINACH. Really a spring and fall crop, but can be had all 
summer by making successional sowings in cool, moist ground. 
For early-spring crops, sow the seeds in the fall outdoors and 
cover with mulch. Thick-leaved is the hardiest; for spring- 
sowing. Long Standing, Long Season and Victoria are the best. 

SPINACH, NEW ZEALAND. Not a true spinach, but a 
good substitute, as it withstands the heat of summer when the 
true spinach will not grow well. Use the ends of the branches 
and the leaves. 



i6 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

SQUASH. The earliest are the summer squashes, of which 
White Bush Scarlet and Yellow Crookneck are the best. For 
winter, plant Boston Marrow or Hubbard. Store as for pump- 
kins. 

TOMATO. Start the early kinds in pots or cans, so that 
they may be easily transplanted when all danger of frost has 
passed. Grow on stakes or treUises, or put brush about them, 
to prevent the vines getting on the ground. For early, plant 
Earliana or Early Jewel; for main crop. Acme and Stone. 
The ground must not be too rich or fruit will not set. 

TURJ^^IP. To be good, they must be grown quickly. Slowly- 
grown turnips will be woody, stringy and bitter. Have rich, 
moist soil in fine tilth. 

Of the flat kinds, Milan Purple Top, Munich and Teltow 
are good home kinds. White rutabagas are better than the 
yellow. Grow Budlong's White Swede. Plant Rutabagas in 
June or July. 

Flat turnips for winter use should also be sown in June, 
in New England; about New York, July 15; while, about 
Philadelphia, August 15 is plenty early enough. If planted 
earlier they would get too hard and woody. For spring use, 
sow as soon as the ground can be worked. 



The best books on vegetable gardening are: The Principles 
of Vegetable Gardening, by Prof. L. H. Bailey. $1.50 net. 

Vegetable Gardening, by Prof. S. B. Green. $1. 

A Book of Vegetables and Garden Herbs, by Allen French. 
$1.75 net. 

How to Make a Vegetable Garden, by Edith L. Fullerton, 
$2.20. 






PLANTING TIME-TABLES FOR FLOWERS 



N'ariety 



Abronia 

Achillea ( Sneezwort) 

Adonis 

Ageratum 

Agrostemma (Rose-of -Heaven) . . 

Alonsoa 

Amarantus 

Aquilegia { Columbine ) 

Argemone ( Mexican Poppy ) 

Asperula 

Aster ( China ) 

Aster (Perennial) 

Balloon Vine 

Balsam 

Bartonia , 

Beets 

Black Dahlia 

Brachycome (Swan River Daisy 

Cacalia (Emilia) 

Calandrina 

Calendula (Pot Marigold) 

Calliopsis ( Coreopsis ) 

Callirhoe (Poppy Mallow) 

Campanula (Canterbury Bell) . . 

Candytuft 

Cannabis (Giant Hemp) 



When to Sow Seed 



Indoors 



March 



March 
March 
April 
April 
April 



April in pots 

April 
March, April 



April 
April 



Outdoors 



April 
March 
April 



March 
March 
April 



April 



Thin or 
Transplant 
to (inches) 



May 
June-Sept, i 
April 
May 
May 
May 



July-Sept. I 

May 

May 

May 
July-Sept. I 

May 

May 

May 



May 
May 
May 
May 
Late April 
April 
May 
July-Sept. I 
May 
May 



6 
6 

6 to 12 

i8 
8 

12 

6 
9 

12 

6 

24 

6 
6 

12 

6 
6 
6 
6 



/) to 12 
24 



Height 

(feet) 



}4to I'A 

I to I^ 

I 

'AtoK 

1 to i^ 
I to 3 
5 to 6 

2A 
iK t0 2 

r 
I to 3 
I to 3 

lO 

2 to 2>^ 

I to 3 

t to 2 
I to I ^3 

'A to I 

I to 2 

H to I 
% 
\A 

1 to 3 

2 to 3 
^ to i^ 

10 



17 



i8 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

PLANTING TIME-TABLES FOR FLOWERS, continued 



\'ariety 



Cardinal Flower 

Castor-bean (Ricinus ) 

Catananche 

Celosia ( Cockscomb) 

Carnation (Marguerite) 

Centaurea ( Blue Bottle ) 

Centranthus 

Chrysanthemum, Annual 

Cleome ( Spider Plant) 

Cobcea 

Collinsia 

Convolvulus 

Cosmos, Early 

Cosmos, Late 

Dahlia 

Dianthus (China Pink) 

Digitalis ( Foxglove) 

Eschscholzia (California Poppy) 

Evening Primrose 

Flar 

Four O'clock 

Gaillardia 

Gilia 

Globe amaranth (Gomphrena) . . . 

Golden Tuft (Alyssum) 

Gourds 



When to Sow Seed 



Indoors 



March 
April 
March 
March, April 
March 



April 
March, April 

April 
March, April 

April 



April 
April, May 
March, April 
Marcli, Af)ril 



April 
April 



April 
March, April 



Outdoors 



May 



May 



April 
May 
May 
Mav 



May 
April 
May 
May 



Mays 
July-Sept. 1 

May 

April 

May 

May 

May 

May 

May 
July-Sept. I 

May 



Thin or 
Transplant 
to (inches) 



9 
3 
6 
6 
6 
6 

9 

8 
8 
8 
8 

2 
12 

24 

3 
6 
9 

4 

20 

8 
8 
6 
3 to 12 
6 
6 

12 



PLANTING TIME-TABLES FOR FLOWERS 

PLANTING TIME-TABLES FOR FLOWERS, continued 



19 



Gypsophila 

Hawkweed 

Helianthus ( Sunflower ) . . . 

Hibiscus 

Hollyhock 

Honesty (Lunaria) 

Hop 

Ipomcea (Morning-Glory) .. 

Kochia 

Larkspur (Annual ) 

Lobelia 

Lupinus 

Madia (Tarweed) , 

Marigold 

Martynia (Unicorn plant) 

Matthiolabicornis 

Mignonette 

Myosotis ( Forget-me-not ) 

Nasturtium 

Nicotiana (Tobacco) 

Pansy 

Petunia 

Phlox (Annual) 

Poppy (Annual) 

Poppy, Iceland 

Pyrethrum , 



When to Sow Seed 



Indoors 



April 



April, May 
March, April 
March, April 
March, April 



Outdoors 



March 



March, April 
Feb., April 



April 
April 



March, April 

April 

April 

April 

March 
Feb , March 
March, April 



Thin or 
Transplant 
to (inches) 



May 
April, May 

May 
July-Sept. 1 
July-Sept. I 

May 
April, May 
April 
April 
May 5 

May 

May 

May 

May 

May 

April 
May 10 

May 

May I 

May 10 

April, July, 

August 

May 

May 

April, Sept., 

October 
April-Sept. 

July-Sept. 



8 to 12 

6 
12 to 36 
15 to 24 

15 

12 

12 

6 

9 to 12 

6 

4 
6 
12 
6 
24 
6 
6 
6 
6 
9 
4 
6 
12 
6 
6 



Height 

(leet) 



1 to 2 

^ to I 
3 to 6 
5 to 7 
5 to 7 
i^ to2H 
20 to 30 
10 to 15 

2 to 2j^i 

I to I K 

% 

2 
I to 2 

% to;3 



I 
% 

I to 10 
3 

^3 

I 
I 

I to 2 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

PLANTING TIME-TABLES FOR FLOWERS, continued 



Variety 



Portulaca 

Salpiglossis 

Salvia 

Scabiosa (Mourning Bride) . . 

Silene (Catchfly) 

Snapdragon 

Stocks (Ten Weeks) 

Sweet Alyssum 

Sweet Pea 

Sweet William 



Venus' Looking-glass (Specu- 

laria). 
Verbena 



Zinnia 



When to Sow Seed 



Indoors 



April 
Feb., March 
April 
March 
March 
March, April 



March 



Feb., -April 
March, April 



Outdoors 



May 
May 
May 
May 
April' 



May 
April, May 
Mar., April 
July-Sept. I 

April 

May 

May 



Thin or 
Transplant 
to (inches) 



6 

6 

i8 

9 

6 

6 to 12 

12 

4 
3 
6 
6 
6 
6 



Height 

(feet) 



2 to 2j^ 
2 to 3 

2 

I to 154 
'A to 3 
I to 1 5^ 
K to 14 
6 



I^ t0 2 




THE BEST FLOWERS FOR THE 
HOME GARDEN 

TN THE seed catalogues, the annuals are divided into three 
classes, hardy, half-hardy and tender, but, for practical 
purposes, the amateur need consider them in only two classes, 
hardy and tender. Seeds of the hardy annuals can be planted 
in the border where they are to go, or in seed-beds before all 
danger of frost is past, that is, the seeds can be sown as soon 
as the ground is in fit condition to work. The half-hardy and 
tender annuals cannot be planted out until the ground has 
become warm or until danger from frost is past. For this rea- 
son, the common practice is to sow them in flats in the green- 
house or window-garden, or in coldframes. If one has a cold- 
frame, it will be much easier to handle all the seeds of annuals 
this way because much larger plants can be secured by the 
last of May or early in June when the bulk of the bedding is 
done. 

The seed-bed should be finely pulverized, and the rows 
made about a quarter of an inch deep. This is best done by 
having a strip of wood one inch thick and about three or four 
inches wide, and as long as the seed-bed. On one side, a small 
strip of wood one inch square and as long as the strip to which 
it is attached, is tacked. This is used to make the drills for the 
seed by pressing into the soft earth. When the seeds have been 
sown, glass sash should be put over the frame, or a cheap sub- 
stitute, water-proofed muslin frames. 

As soon as the young seedlings have made two or three 
true leaves, they should be pricked out or transplanted to 
about two inches apart each way. If pots, either clay or paper, 
are available, the young plants can be transplanted into these. 
The great advantage of using pots is that the roots will not 
be disturbed when they are planted in the beds, but where 
space is at a premium this method is not essential except in a 
few instances, such as argemone and mignonette. 

The following list of plants supplements the table on the 
preceding page. The letters after the plant name indicate 
whether the plant is a hardy or tender annual or perennial. 



22 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

Abronia. H. A. A tender California perennial which in the 
East is grown as an annual. It is a trailing plant, having 
yellow, pink, rose or white fragrant flowers that resemble a 
verbena flower. It grows six to eighteen inches high. An 
excellent way to grow this is to start the seeds in the fall in 
pots in a sandy soil and store the young plants in a coldframe 
overwinter, ^./mgraw^ is a night bloomer. Remove the husk 
from the seed before sowing. 

Achillea Ptarmica (Sneezewort). H. P. Grows two feet high 
and has white flowers that are borne in a loose corymb; they 
flower all summer. A double variety, The Pearl, is the best 
type. It is one of the best hardy white-flowered perennials 
grown. 

Adonis Autumalis (Flos Adonis) and A. iEstivalis (Pheas- 
ant's Eye) are hardy annuals with crimson or scarlet flowers. 
The former flowers from May to July; the latter in June. They 
grow about one foot in height. There are several hardy per- 
ennials: Spring Adonis A. vernalis has large, bright yellow 
flowers in early spring. This is the common one in cultiva- 
tion. Apennina is much like Vernalis except that the flowers 
are a little larger. It blooms in April. Pyrenaica has a branched 
stem, but the flowers are smaller than Vernalis; blooms in 
July. Amurensis has large, yellow flowers and blooms two 
weeks ahead of any other hardy perennial. There are several 
other varieties of lesser importance. 

Ageratum (Floss Flower). H. A. Annuals that can be grown 
from seeds or cuttings. There are several varieties, white and 
blue. The blue varieties are best, and Stella Gurney, a bright 
blue, is the best variety. Flowers from June to frost. 

Agrostemma (Rose of Heaven). H. P. It blooms the first 
year from seed. Grows from one to one and a half feet high 
and has bright crimson flowers one inch across, similar to a 
single pink, and silvery white foliage. Is an excellent cut- 
flower, very free-flowering. In flower from July to frost. 

Alonsoa. H. H. A. A half-hardy annual, having scarlet 
flowers that are one-half to one inch across. Excellent as a 
bedding plant for small beds or for clumps in borders. Grows 
one foot high. 

Amarantus. T. A. There are several species, all showy, 
tender annuals. The foliage is brilliant and they have brilliant 
red or crimson spikes of flowers. The foliage of Joseph's Coat, 



FLOWERS FOR THE HOME GARDEN 23 

A. tricolor is particularly attractive. They grow from three 
to six feet high. 

Aquilegia (Columbine). A hardy perennial having red, pink, 
blue or white flowers. The height varies according to the 
species, from almost no stem at all to two and one-half or 
three feet. They require light, sandy soil, that is moist but 
well drained, and a sheltered situation that is exposed to the 
sun. Sow the seeds in the early summer for flowers next year. 

Argemone (Mexican, or Prickly Poppy). H. A. Mexicana 
has yellow flowers; Grandiflora, white; Platyceras white; the 
foliage is a glaucous green and very spiny. It requires a light 
sandy soil in a sunny situation. Sow the seeds where the 
plants are to stand, or in pots to transplant. They cannot be 
successfully transplanted from seed-beds. 

Asperula odorata (Sweet Woodruff). H. P. Has fragrant 
flowers. Grow in clumps in the border or in a rockery. Grow 
in moist soil in a shaded place. There is an annual species, 
Orientalis, but which is catalogued as Setosa-azurea. 

Aster, China. H. H. A. An excellent bedding plant, but if 
the early kinds are used they must be replaced late in summer 
with other plants. Put wood-ashes in the hole where the plants 
are set, and later water occasionally with tobacco water to 
kill the blue aphids on the roots. 

Aster Novae-Angliae. H. P. The best blue fall flower. 
Plant for mass effects, with dark background or as small 
clumps in borders. They can be easily propagated from seed 
or by division of the roots; the latter is the method usually 
pursued. 

Balloon Vine. H. H. A. The flowers of this are small. It is 
grown for its curious, inflated seed-pods. Grow on fences or 
trellises for screens. 

Balsam. T. A. Prefers a sunny situation and needs a rich, 
moist soil. The double or camellia-flowered varieties are best. 
Is best grown as clumps in the border. 

Bartonia. H. A. Sow seed where the plants are to stand. 
The flowers are two to two and one-half inches across. They 
are fragrant at night. The plants have rather a straggly habit. 

Beets. H. A. The ornamental-foliaged varieties are excel- 
lent as edgings to beds if they have a further edging of Golden 
Feather. The variegated foliage — red, yellow and green — 
make excellent mass effects. 



24 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

Black Dahlia. H. A. Bidens atrosanguinea of the trade. 
The flowers are showy, hke coreopsis. It is better grown in 
clumps in the border. The tuberous roots can be stored over 
winter like the common dahlia root. 

Brachycome.(Swan River Daisy). H. H. A. The flowers are 
one inch across. It is excellent for growing in clumps in the 
border. It can be used as an edging in borders. It is also 
useful as a pot plant. 

Cacalia (Emilia) (Tassel Flower). H. A. An easily grown 
plant, as it does well in any soil; has daisy-like flowers which 
are three inches across. 

Calandrina. H. A. This is an excellent plant for rockeries, 
as well as borders, and can be used for edging. It prefers a 
sunny situation. The perennial species, Umbellata, can be 
treated as an annual. Full exposure to the sun and a light, 
sandy soil are necessary in order that the best results may be 
had. The flowers close at night. Can be propagated from 
seeds or cuttings. 

Calendula. H. A. One of the easiest-grown annuals. Can 
be grown as a bedding plant, or as clumps in a border. It 
self-sows. The dried flower heads are used to flavor soups. 

Callirhoe. H. P. Will flower the first year from seed if 
started early . Very free-flowering, showy plants, that are 
best grown as clumps in the border. 

Campanula (Canterbury Bell). H. P. Best grown as clumps 
in the border. Seeds started one year will flower the next. 
Protect the young plants over the winter with dry leaves or 
in coldframes, if possible. 

Candytuft. H. A. One of the best plants for edging, bed- 
ding, rockeries, or cut-flowers. There are several varieties 
that are fragrant; all are profuse bloomers. Make several 
sowings, to insure flowers until cold weather. It prefers a rich, 
moist soil and a sunny situation. 

Cannabis. H. H. A. Sow the seeds where the plants are to 
stand. Excellent for temporary screens and backs of borders. 
Quicker effects are obtained if the seeds are started indoors 
in pots. 

Cardinal Flower. H. P. Must be started in February to 
get flowers the same year. Thrives in any rich, moist, garden 
loam, or even in wet places where the water is not stagnant. 
Best grown in masses. 



FLOWERS FOR THE HOME GARDEN 25 

Castor Beans. T. A. The seeds must be started in pots for 
the plant will not stand injury to its roots. Its chief use is as 
screens and as the center of tall beds, such as beds of cannas, 
and for some tropical effects. 

Catananche. H. P. It will flower the first year from seed if 
started early. The blue, daisy-like flowers are two inches 
across. Variety Alba has white flowers; Bicolor, blue with white 
edges. Is very free-flowering. 

Celosia. T. A. The chief attraction of the coxcomb is its 
well-formed flower-head. It is good for bedding, but not so 
much grown as formerly. Needs a rich, moist soil. Syringe it 
frequently for red spider. Ostrich Feather is another variety 
that grows rather tall; it has showy curled and curved plumes 
resembling ostrich feathers. 

Carnation, Marguerite. H. P. It is excellent as a bedding 
plant and needs no edging. Flowers in four months from seed. 
No use to try to hold plants over from one year to another. 

Centaurea. H. A. Grow in masses in the border, or in clumps 
about the house. Will bloom all summer if the old flowers 
are picked off. It self-sows. To get the earliest flowers, sow 
the seed in the fall where they are to grow. 

Centranthus. H. P. A much-neglected but very handsome 
old garden plant that blooms all summer. It makes an excel- 
lent cut-flower. 

Chrysanthemum. H. A. Not the fall-flowering kind. Very 
profuse blooming plants that commence blooming in the early 
summer and continue until fall. Very effective when grown 
in masses in large beds. Pinch back when the plants are small 
to make a bushy growth. 

Cleome. T. B. An excellent plant for sandy soil in sunny 
situations. They can be used the same as the castor-oil plant, 
to fill up large gaps in the borders. The flowers are borne in 
long spikes. 

Cobaea. T. A. The seeds should be planted on edge. It is an 
excellent climber for trellises, porches, and any unsightly 
objects. The flowers are large and bell-shaped. 

Collinsia. H. A. Very free-flowering. Can be sown in the 
autumn out-of-doors where they are to grow the following 
year, provided the soil is well-drained. Prefers a rich, moist 
soil, and it has curious snapdragon-like flowers. 

Coreopsis (Tickseed). The annual kinds will flower all sum- 



26 The suburban garden guide 

mer if the old flowers are picked off. They are very showy. 
The perennial form, Lanceolata, is one of the best perennials 
we have. Both kinds are excellent as cut-flowers. 

Convolvulus. There are several forms, annual and perennial. 
Most of them are climbers. C. tricolor is a hardy annual 
growing only a foot high, which makes an excellent border for 
beds. Flowers open only in the sun. 

Cosmos. T. A. One of the most showy of the tall-growing 
annuals. The seeds must be started indoors to get early effects. 
It makes a fine pot-plant indoors for early fall flowers, after the 
frost has killed the plants growing in the open. Lady Lenox 
is the largest-flowered variety; five inches across. 

Dahlia. T. P. The dahlia does best during the cool weather. 
In most localities, if the plant is started early, it commences 
to flower during the hot summer weather, but the flowers are 
small. Late-started plants produce larger flowers. Stake the 
plants to prevent their being blown over by high winds. 

Dianthus. H. P. Blooms the first year from seed. Hedde- 
wigi is the earliest-blooming form. Best grown in clumps in 
borders or as edgings; are good cut-flowers. 

Digitalis. H. B. Plant in clumps or masses at back of bor- 
der. The seeds will self-sow, which results in practically a per- 
manent plantation. Protect the seedlings over winter with 
dry leaves. 

Eschscholtzia. H. A. The seeds must be sown where the 
plants are to grow. Excellent for massing or as edgings to 
beds, for its glaucous foliage looks well all summer. 

Evening Primrose. H. B. Lamarckiana is the best form. 
The flowers open in the evening and are fragrant. They are 
four to five inches across. Acaulis is a good white variety. 

Flax. H. A. Grow in clumps in a sunny border. The flowers 
last only a day but they are borne in great profusion. Will 
succeed in a dry, sunny place. 

Four O 'clocks. H. A. A good bedding-plant for sunny 
places. Also is a good edging for borders. Flowers open in 
the morning and late afternoon, but are closed during the mid- 
dle of the day. 

Gaillardia. H. A. One of the showiest and most useful 
annuals, excellent for beds and needs no edgings in such cases. 
Plant for mass effects. Keep the old flowers cut off and the 
plants will stay in bloom all summer. 



FLOWERS FOR THE HOME GARDEN 27 

Gilia. H. A. Very vigorous, free-flowering plants that are 
excellent for low masses, or as edgings, or to fill pockets in 
rockeries. The seeds should be sown where they are to grow. 
They will succeed in any soil. Tricolor is the best tall 
variety. 

Globe Amaranth. H. A. This is one of the so-called ever- 
lastings. It is excellent as a bedding plant, remaining in flower 
all summer. The flower-heads are about an inch across. It 
does best with a well-drained, sandy loam. 

Golden Tuft. H. P. Grow in clumps in the border or in the 
rockery. The flowers are produced in compact heads. 

Gourds. T. A. These are very useful for training over 
trellises, porches, fences and unsightly objects. Has orna- 
mental fruits of many shapes. Sow the seeds where the plants 
are to grow, or start them inside in pots, but be careful not to 
injure the roots when transplanting. 

Gypsophila (Baby's Breath). H. A. The habit of all these 
plants is slender and airy, and still they make a rather com- 
pact, symmetrical growth. Elegans is most often grown for 
cutting. It is particularly useful for adding to bouquets of 
sweet peas. They prefer a rather dry soil, and are excellent 
for filling in rockeries and underneath shrubberies in borders. 

Hawkweed. H. A. A showy annual for the garden but a 
bad weed in the lawn, so that its cultivation can hardly be 
recommended, although it is listed in some seed catalogues. 

Helianthus. H. A. Grow at the back of the borders or in 
clumps to cover unsightly objects, such as fences. The seeds 
make excellent poultry food. 

Hibiscus. H. A. Very showy plant, the flowers being three 
and four inches across. Grow the plants as single specimens 
in the border. Moscheutos is a hardy perennial that does well 
in moist soils. 

Hollyhocks. H. P. Most effective when used in the back of 
the border. There is a disease which causes the leaves to wither 
and die but which can be held in check by spraying with Bor- 
deaux mixture from the time the plants first appear above 
the ground. If planted behind shrubbery, any unsightliness 
from the Bordeaux or loss of leaves will be hid. 

Honesty. H. B. Will bloom the first year from seed if 
started early. It is a delightful, old-fashioned plant but sel- 
dom grown now. Its chief interest is in the large, flat pods 



28 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

which have broad satiny partitions which remain after the 
outside of the pod has dropped off. 

Hop {Humulus Japonicus). H. A. A very quick -growing 
annual, excellent for covering porches, trellises, fences and 
unsightly places. The variety Variegatus has its leaves 
splashed with white. The seed often self -sows. 

Ipomoea. H. A. There are a great many varieties of morn- 
ing glories; the moonflower and cypress vine are included 
under this head. They can be used to cover trellises, porches 
and any unsightly places, and can be trained almost anywhere 
on strings. They need a rich, moist soil. The Japanese strain 
has the largest flowers. 

Kochia (Summer Cypress). H. H. A. This plant is excellent 
as a dwarf hedge. In the fall, the light green foliage changes to 
a carmine or fiery red. It makes an excellent specimen plant. 

Larkspur. H. A. The seeds of this germinate very slowly. 
Although the plants have a rather straggly habit, they do not 
look bad when grown in masses. The flowers make excellent 
cut-flowers. 

Lobelia Erinus. T. A. A charming little plant that blooms 
very quickly from seed and will continue in flower all summer 
long. It is particularly useful as an edging to beds. There are 
red and white varieties in addition to the common blue-flow- 
ered form. 

Lupinus. H. A. Sow the seeds where the plants are to stand. 
Grow them as specimen plants or as clumps in a border. They 
are very showy. 

Madia. H. P. A very graceful plant with an open habit. It 
can be had in flower the first year from seed. When grown in 
the sun the flowers open only in the morning and evening. 
Grow it in a shaded place. 

Marigolds. H. A. These showy annuals must be grown in a 
sunny place. They can be had in short or tall forms. The 
African marigold has the larger flower; French marigolds are 
short and small-flowered. The only objection to these plants 
is their odor, which some people do not like. 

Martynia. H. H. A. A very interesting trailing plant. Its 
only excuse for being grown in the garden is its curious-shaped 
seed-pods, which make good pickles when young. 

Matthiola bicomis. H. H. A. Very straggly habit, and dur- 
ing the day the plant is unattractive, but at night the flowers 



FLOWERS FOR THE HOME GARDEN 29 

open and are fragrant. Plant it near the porch or windows 
where the evenings are spent, that its fragrance may be enjoyed. 

Mignonette. T. A. The seeds must be sown where the plants 
are to grow as it will not permit of transplanting. The plants 
are not showy, but the flowers are very fragrant. Make sev- 
eral sowings, to insure a supply in the garden all summer. 

Myosotis (Forget-me-not). H. P. This delightful little 
plant succeeds best in shady situations in rich, moist soil that 
is well drained. If the environment is congenial the plants 
will become established, making a permanent plantation. 
Otherwise, it will be hard to make it succeed. It can also be 
used as an edging for borders. It blooms during the cool 
weather; will bloom the first year from seed. 

Nasturtium. T. A, This plant will more fully repay one by 
its lavish profusion of flowers for the outlay of time and labor 
than any other annual. The tall varieties can be trained on 
strings or wire over trelHses or porches, or they can be grown 
to cover rocks or unsightly places. The dwarf forms make 
excellent edgings. The flowers are good for cutting; the seeds 
can be used to flavor pickles, or used as capers. 

Nicotiana. H. H. A. The flowering tobacco can be used as 
a bedding plant, either alone or in connection with other 
plants. The flowers are fragrant at night. The plants will 
need staking to prevent high winds from blowing them over. 

Pansy. H. A. February-sown seed will bloom during the 
summer and fall. The plants flower best during the cool 
weather and are used chiefly to fill beds that will later con- 
tain tender bedding plants, such as geraniums. 

Petunia. T. A. A bedding plant that grows as luxuriously 
as a weed, furnishing a profusion of flowers all summer. The 
flowers are large, three inches across, sometimes larger, and 
are fragrant. It can also be used for edging borders, for vases 
and window-boxes 

Phlox. H. A. Produces dazzling eflfects when sown in masses. 
Can also be used for edging beds. Has a very compact habit, 
is a profuse bloomer, and will continue in flower all summer if 
the old flowers are removed. It is one of the best annuals we 
have. 

Poppy. H. A. To get the earliest flowers, sow the seeds in 
well-drained ground in the fall, or in the early spring, as soon 
as the ground is bare of snow. Make several successive sowings. 



30 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

The flowers are very large and can be had in single and double 
forms. Some of the double-flowered varieties are so full as 
to be a complete ball. They do best in a sandy loam. They 
are hard to transplant, and are not successful as cut-flowers. 

Poppy, Iceland. H. B. Can be had in flower the same year 
as sown. To carry them over the winter they must be sown 
in a well-drained location. As the plants are small they must 
be grown close together. 

Pyrethrum. H. P. They can be had in flower the first sea- 
son if the seed is sown early. Tchihatchewii is an excellent 
variety for poor soil. The Golden Feather is a yellow-leaved 
variety which is much used as an edging in formal beds, and 
in carpet bedding. Its flowers are unimportant. It must be 
kept sheared to form. The taller varieties that usually go 
under this name, but which are really chrysanthemums, C. 
coccinium, have daisy-like flowers on long stems. They should 
be grown in clumps in the border. It is a good cut-flower. 
The flowers are sometimes four inches across. This is the 
plant which is meant when people talk about the pyrethrum. 

Portulaca. T. A. An excellent little succulent for growing 
in dry, sunny places. The flowers close at night. They open 
onl}^ in the sun. It is easily transplanted and self-sown. There 
is no use of planting the seeds until the ground becomes warm 
for they will not germinate in cold ground. 

Salpiglossis. H. H. A. A very excellent annual for growing 
as cut-flowers. It bears beautiful, funnel-shaped flowers, 
having dark veins on a ground which varies from white to 
crimson, yellow and orange. It will grow in any soil but does 
particularly well in a light, sandy loam that is rich. It with- 
stands drought. 

Salvia. T. A. The best scarlet flower for late summer and 
fall. It is excellent as a bedding plant. Edge the beds with 
coleus or geraniums. It does particularly well in a light, sandy 
loam that is rich. There are several varieties which vary in 
height and in the shade of red. 

Scabiosa. H. H. A. A very attractive plant. The seeds are 
sown in May and the plants commence to flower in July and 
continue until frost. The flowers are small and are borne in 
large clusters on long, wiry stems. It can be grown either as 
clumps in borders or in masses. 

Silene. H. A. Bright-colored free-flowering annuals that 



FLOWERS FOR THE HOME GARDEN 31 

are excellent for use in the border or in the rockery. It prefers 
a light, sandy soil, with full exposure to the sun. 

Snapdragon. H. P. The peculiar shape of these flowers 
makes them very attractive. They will bloom the first year 
from seed. The flowers are borne in dense spikes that are 
produced all summer long. It is excellent as a bedding plant 
and as a good cut-flower, lasting well in water. 

Stocks. H. H. A. An excellent bedding plant, or it is good 
for clumps in the border. The flowers are fragrant. It is a 
good cut-flower, lasting well in water. The double varieties 
are best. The autumnal- or late-flowering sorts, which can be 
had in named varieties, are excellent for fall and winter cul- 
ture in pots or in benches in the window garden or greenhouse. 
The seed is sown in the spring when all danger of frost is past 
and the plants transferred to the house on the approach of 
cold weather. 

Sweet Alyssum. H. A. One of the best annuals, good for 
growing in clumps in the border or as an edging. Seeds sown 
out-of-doors in well-drained ground in the fall will bloom early 
the following summer and continue to flower until cold weather. 

Sweet Peas. H. A. To attain success with sweet peas the 
seed should be sown as early in the spring as the ground can 
be worked. In localities where the winter is not severe they 
can be sown in the fall. A deep, rich, moist soil is best suited 
to sweet peas. Late-planted seeds will not succeed so well, 
because the plants will not have become established and made 
much growth before hot weather sets in. Syringe the plants 
on clear days, striking the under side of the leaves with the 
water to dislodge the red spider. 

Sweet William. H. B. Blooms the first year if seed is sown 
early. Grows in clumps in the border, or as a bedding plant. 
To prolong the blooming season, remove the old flowers. This 
is a splendid, old-fashioned plant which produces an abun- 
dance of beautifully colored, sweet-scented flowers. 

Venus' Looking Glass. H. H. A. A dainty little plant hav- 
ing bell-shaped flowers one inch across. It is excellent as an 
edging plant. It does not transplant well. 

Verbena. H. H. A. One of the best bedding plants and is 
also a good cut-flower. Fine varieties are perpetuated by 
cuttings. It is useful for beds, borders, mounds, vases and 
window-boxes. Plants raised from seed are stronger and pro- 



32 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

duce more flowers than those raised from cuttings. It delights 
in a rich soil with full exposure to the sun. 

Zinnia. H. A. A very prim, formal-flowered plant that bears 
an abundance of bloom until freezing weather arrives. It 
does well in light soil, and is a good drought-resister, but is 
best when given rich soil. It can be used as a bedding plant, 
as clumps in borders, for edgings and low summer hedges. 
Some of the newer larger-flowering kind are much larger and 
better than the old-fashioned sort. 





HOW AND WHEN TO SPRAY 

The day has passed in which fruit trees or other plants bear- 
ing edible portions can be raised without attacks from insect 
enemies or plant diseases. A spraying outfit is a necessity. 
In the following pages the more important pests are mentioned, 
with the best means of holding them in check. 

FRUIT GARDEN PESTS 
APPLE 

Aphis. — Small, green, soft-bodied insects on the under side 
of the leaves, appearing in April and May on the expanding 
buds. When present in large numbers, they cause the leaves 
to roll inward, making it hard to reach them by sprays. In 
that condition, the growth, with leaves, should be removed. 
To hold them in check, spray with kerosene emulsion (V)* 
or whale-oil soap (VI). They pass the winter in the egg stage, 
the eggs being laid on the twigs near the buds. The winter 
spraying with lime-sulphur wash (Xa) will kill the eggs. 

Canker-worm. — Measuring- worms,^ dull in color. More 
troublesome in New England and northward than South. 
They appear in April and May, eating the young foliage. 
Band the trees with a sticky substance in February or March, 
to prevent the female from crawling up the tree. Spray with 
arsenate of lead (I) as soon as the insects appear. Repeat in 
a day or two, if they were not all killed by the first spray. 
Thoroughly cultivate the ground in June and July, to break 
up the cells in which they pass the winter. 

Borer. — The grub of a beetle. The eggs are laid on the 
bark in June. The egg hatches and the grub mines the sap- 
wood. Wash the trunk of the tree with carbolic soap (XII). 
Wrap the trunks in May, allowing the wrapping to stay on 
until December. Inject carbon bisulphide in the tunnels. 

Bud-worm, or Moth. — Small caterpillars mining in the 
buds. Spray with arsenate of lead (I) as the green leaves 
begin to show in the buds. Repeat just before the buds open, 
and again after the petals fall. 

Codling-moth. — The grub that makes wormy apples. It 
enters the calyx, and lives on the core, afterward eating its 
*Tbe roman aumerals refer to the formulas given on pages 56-59. 

33 



34 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

way out. Spray with arsenate of lead (I) as soon as petals 
fall; repeat in ten days. Pick up and destroy all fallen apples. 
Cultivate the acquaintance of and, protect the little wood- 
peckers, called sap-suckers; they eat them. Repeat the spray- 
ing in June for the second brood coming from your neighbors' 
trees. 

CuRCULio. — A snout beetle that punctures the skin, leaving 
crescent-shaped marks, and causing knotty growth in apples. 
Spray with arsenate of lead (I) as soon as the petals fall; repeat 
in ten days. Give a third spraying two weeks later. 

Case-bearer. — A small grub living in a cylindrical silk case 
Spraying for the bud-worm will also exterminate this pest. 

Oyster-shell Bark-louse. — A small sucking insect which 
protects itself by a brown oyster-shell-shaped case. Spray 
trees and shrubs, while dormant, with lime-sulphur wash (Xa) 
or with kerosene emulsion (V), or whale-oil soap (VI), in late 
May (about the 25th) and early June. 

Railroad- WORM. — This is the white grub infesting early 
summer apples. The best preventive is to pick up and destroy 
all windfalls. 

Red-humped Apple-worm. — Has a red head and a red 
hump on its back, body striped yellow and black. It appears 
in June and July, and strips the foliage from the ends of the 
limbs. Hand-pick, spray with arsenate of lead (I), kerosene 
emulsion (V), or whale-oil soap (Vic), when insects appear. 

Tent-caterpillar. — The insect that builds large webs in 
the early spring in apple and cherry trees. Destroy the webs 
as soon as they appear. Best done in early morning or late 
evening when dew is on by rubbing on and around the limbs 
and in the nest, a rag soaked in kerosene; or, spray the webs 
with kerosene. 

Woolly Aphis. — Small, soft-bodied insects, covered with 
a woolly, waxy covering. Present the year round on the roots, 
causing knots, and also on the trunk or limbs. Lift soil about 
trunk, and spread an inch of tobacco (IXa), putting the soil 
back again. Spray above ground, when present, with kerosene 
emulsion (V) or whale-oil soap (Vic). 

Bitter-rot. — A faint, light brown discoloration under the 
skin of the fruit, which later becomes dark brown. Appears 
in July and August. Winters in " cankers," which are rounded 
or oblong sooty — black, sunken spots. Cut off the canker 



HOW AND WHEN TO SPRAY-FRUIT GARDEN 35 

spots. Spray with Bordeaux mixture (XVIII) or lime-sulphur 
wash (X) once before buds open, and every two weeks in July, 
and until fruit is almost ripe. 

Rust. — Causes bright yellow spots on leaves and fruits. 
Appears in May and June. Spray with Bordeaux mixture 
(XVIII) or lime-sulphur wash (Xb). As the "cedar apple," 
or knotty balls, on cedar trees, is one of the necessary forms 
in the life history of this fungus, they must be destroyed if 
growing near apple trees. 

Scab. — Brown spots upon the leaves, causing them to curl 
and to become torn; on the fruit, brown or black blotches, 
one-fourth to one-half inch in diameter. It sometimes kills 
the blossoms. Turn under, early in the spring, all fallen leaves. 
The fungus lives overwinter on them. Spray with copper 
sulphate (XIII) or lime-sulphur wash (Xb) before the buds 
open. Repeat with lime-sulphur wash (Xc) or Bordeaux mix- 
ture (XVIII) when petals drop, and repeat twice at intervals 
of ten to fourteen days. 

San Jose Scale. — Grayish or blackish scales as big as a 
small pinhead, incrusting the branches and causing small red- 
dish spots in the fruit. Will kill the tree. Prune the tree when 
dormant, cutting out the badly infested branches, and spray 
with lime-sulphur wash f(Xa) or whale-oil soap (Via), and 
repeat the lime-sulphur spray as late as possible in the spring 
before the buds open. When young hatch, spray with ker- 
osene emulsion (V) or whale-oil soap (Vic), 

BLACKBERRY. DEWBERRY. RASPBERRY 

Cane-borer, Cane-Maggot, Tree-cricket. — These bore 
into the cane, causing the tips to die back. They appear any 
time in the summer. The only remedy is to cut the cane back 
below the injury and destroy these prunings by fire. The punc- 
tures can be seen in winter when the foliage is off. 

Rose Scale. — A pure white, very conspicuous, nearly oval 
scale, about an eighth of an inch in diameter. Always present. 
Remove and burn badly infested canes, and spray with kero- 
sene emulsion (V) in May. 

Saw-fly, or Slug. — A little, light green caterpillar, or 
slug, with black spines, appearing in June, or early July, which 
eats round holes in the leaves, and finally defoliates the plants. 
Spray with arsenate of lead (I) when the leaves have expanded 



$6 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

or when the insects appear, and repeat in a few days, or as 
may seem necessary. Dust with hellebore (IV). 

Anthracnose. — First small, and finally long, irregular 
brown or purple spots on the young canes. Remove badly 
infested canes. Spray with copper sulphate (XIII) before the 
leaves appear, and, when young canes are six inches high, spray 
with Bordeaux mixture (XVIII), and repeat frequently until 
fruit is two-thirds grown. 

Root-knot or Crown-gall. — A knotty growth at the 
crown of the plant, i. e., at the base of the canes, which has 
hairy outgrowths. The only remedy is to dig out and burn 
infestied plants. 

Rust. — A fine orange dust (spores) on the under sides of 
the leaves in June. There is no remedy. Dig out and destroy 
infested plants, whether cultivated plants or wild ones, in the 
vicinity of the fruit garden. 

CHERltY 

Aphis. — See under peach. 
Slug. — Same as Pear-slug. 
CuRCULio. — Same as Plum-curculio. 
Black-knot. — See under Plum. 
Brown-rot. — See under Peach. 
Leaf-blight. — See under Plum. 

CURRANTS 

Aphis. — A small yellow plant louse, appearing in May and 
found on the under side of the leaves, which causes galls on 
the leaves, and also curling of the leaves. Spray with kero- 
sene emulsion (V) or whale-oil soap (Vic), when they first 
appear, and repeat in ten days. 

Currant-worms. — A light-green worm an inch long, with 
black spots, which appears in May or June; first, near the 
ground, and later further up on the plants, eating the leaves 
and often stripping a bush in a few days. Spray with arsenate 
of lead (I) as necessary. When fruit is half-grown, use helle- 
bore (IV). 

Leaf-blight. — Appears in June or July in the form of round 
spots on^leaves. Spray with ammoniacal copper carbonate 
(XIV) while the plants are in fruit, afterward with Bordeaux 
mixture (XVIII). 



HOW AND WHEN TO SPRAY— FRUIT GARDEN 37 

GOOSEBERRY 

Currant-worms. — See Currant. 

Mildew. — Powdery appearance on the leaves of the young 
growth. Spray with Bordeaux mixture (XVIII) before the 
buds open. Afterward spray with potassium sulphide (XV) 
every ten days, or with ammoniacal copper carbonate (XIV). 

Four-lined Leaf-bug. — A small, yellow bug (three-eighths 
of an inch long) with four black stripes, appearing in early 
summer, eating the leaves. It is hard to kill, needing strong 
kerosene emulsion (V). Dilute the stock solution only five 
times, as a weaker solution will fail. Pruning in winter will 
help, as the insect winters ih the egg stage; burn the prunings. 

Borer. — Bores and girdles shoots. Cut them out in the 
spring after growth has started sufficiently to show which canes 
are dead. At any time during the summer, cut off wilted twigis. 

Currant Span-worm. — Bright yellow, one inch long, with 
white lines and numerous black spots, appearing in May or 
June. Let hens run among the bushes, or hand-pick. Rake 
up and burn in the fall all fallen leaves near bushes. Spray 
with arsenate of lead (I) before fruit is half-grown. 

GRAPE 

Grape Berry-moth. — A small grub mining in the fruits, 
which wither. They appear from June to August, and can 
be held in check by using arsenate of lead (I) in the Bordeaux 
mixture (XVIII) during spring spraying. 

Caterpillars. — There are several forms of larvae which 
feed upon the grape leaves, which can be held in check by 
spraying with arsenate of lead (I) in Bordeaux mixture as the 
buds are opening. 

Grape Curculio. — A snout beetle which punctures a hole 
in the grape and deposits an egg, leaving a brown spot, which, 
in the case of dark-colored grapes, turns to a purplish area; or 
the whole grape may color prematurely. They appear in July 
or August. Spray with arsenate of lead (I) once a week, late 
in June and in July. Bag the grapes. This latter is absolute 
insurance against loss. 

Flea-beetle. — A small steel-blue insect, which, both as a 
beetle and as a grub, feeds upon the leaf of the grape. Spray 
with arsenate of lead (I) as the buds begin to swell. 

Leaf-hopper. — One-eighth of an inch long, and prettily 



38 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

marked with green, rosy-red, and yellow, appearing in August. 
Spray with kerosene emulsion (V) and catch on sticky shields. 

Phylloxera. — An aphis which lives on the roots of the 
grape. Does but little damage to American grapes, but the 
European or vinifera varieties succumb. To kill, inject bisul- 
phide of carbon into the soil about the roots. 

Root-worm. — A bluish grub, or worm, with four black stripes 
and four light stripes. Inject carbon bisulphide into the ground 
about the roots. Spray leaves, when the moth is found, as for 
flea-beetle. 

Grape-root Borer. — A worm one and one-half to one and 
three-fourths inches long, which bores into the roots. Dig 
them out. As a preventive, bank soil about the cane. 

Rose-chafer. — Spray with arsenate of lead (one pound to 
five gallons) before they arrive in June. 

Grape-cane Borer. — A brown beetle will be found in the 
grape twig, which suddenly wilts and breaks off in the spring. 
It is especially bad in the South. Cut off and burn all injured 
shoots, and also diseased wood and rubbish about the vines. 

Anthracnose. — Deep pits and scars on the canes, and dis- 
colored leaves. Spray with copper sulphate, six and one-half 
ounces to five gallons, before the buds open. 

Black-rot. — A fungus which attacks the full-grown berries, 
which become shriveled and black. Bag the grapes. Spray 
with Bordeaux mixture (XVIII), commencing as soon as fruit 
sets, and giving from three to six more applications. Burn all 
diseased prunings, rotten fruit, etc. 

Downy Mildew. — Brown downy patches on the under side 
of the leaves, rotting, turning brown or gray. Spray with Bor- 
deaux mixture (XVIII) as for black-rot. 

Powdery Mildew. — Dull white powdery patches on the 
leaves. Treat as for black-rot. 

PEACH 

Aphis. — Black aphids which live on the under side of the 
leaves, causing them to curl. They are worst in May and June. 
Spray with kerosene emulsion (V), whale-oil soap (Vic), or 
with tobacco (IXb), before leaves curl. When leaves have 
curled, the only remedy is to cut all twigs with curled leaves. 

Borer. — A soft, white-bodied grub, having a reddish brown 
head, which hatches from eggs laid upon the bark of the trunk, 



HOW AND WHEN TO SPRAY— FRUIT GARDEN 39 

at or near the surface of the soil, during the summer months. 
They burrow through the inner bark and sap-wood of the trunk 
and larger roots, i. Dig them out in fall and spring, using a 
sharp knife, and always cutting with the grain of the wood, 
never across the grain. 2. Make a mound of earth about the 
trunk of the tree June first, leaving it until September first. 
3. Wrap the trunk with paper and other material, paint trunk 
with carbolic soap (XII) or with residue of lime-sulphur wash, 
to prevent egg-laying. 

CuRCULio. — See under Plum. 

Brown-rot. — The fruit turns brown and dries up. These 
are mummies and hang on all winter. The fungus also attacks 
the flowers and growing twigs, killing them. Spray with cop- 
per sulphate (XIII) just before the buds open, and with Hme- 
sulphur wash (Xld) every two weeks until fruit is nearly grown. 

Peach-leaf Curl. — The leaves have yellow or red blotches 
and curl up. Spraying with lime-sulphur wash (XIa) before 
the buds open will prevent it. 

Peach Rosette and Yellows. — No known remedy. Dig 
out and burn at once all infested trees. 

PEAR 

Codling-moth. — See under Apple. 

Midge. — A very small fly, which appears when the first buds 
of spring open. It lays its eggs in the flowers as soon as they 
show white. The larvae work their way into the ovule, or seed 
capsule, causing the fruit, when it is the size of a nut, to stop 
growth. The fruit is irregular in shape, knotty, and the center 
full of small yellow larvae. They drop in June. Plant a catch- 
crop of the Lawrence pear, a variety of which it is especially 
fond. Sow kainit one thousand pounds to the acre, between 
the middle and end of June; or work an abundance of pow- 
dered tobacco (IXa) into the soil at this same time, for then 
the larvae are making their way from the fallen cracked fruit 
into the ground. If a few Lawrence pear trees are planted as a 
catch-crop, the other trees will be practically free from this 
insect. 

Borer. — Rarely present in large numbers. Larvae similar to 
peach borer. Paint trunks with carbolic soap (XII). 
P^Pear-leaf Mite. — Small reddish spots appear on the upper 
surface of the leaves, or before they have fully expanded in 



40 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

spring, which later become black, the tissues of the leaf dry- 
ing. It is caused by a small creature similar to the red spider 
found on house-plants and in greenhouses. Spray in winter or 
spring, before buds open, with kerosene emulsion (V), diluting 
the stock solution with only five to seven parts of water. 

Pear-tree Psylla. — A small jumping louse one-tenth of an 
inch long. There are two forms, dark and light. The dark 
form spends the winter in the crevices of the bark, coming out 
in spring, laying eggs which hatch into worms, or larvae, that 
suck the sap from the leaves, and exude a honey dew. They 
are present all summer, but are worst in July and August. Spray 
with lime-sulphur (Xa); or kerosene emulsion (V), diluted 
only five to seven times, when the tree is dormant; and with 
whale-oil soap (VIb) in April. 

Pear-slug.— A greenish-black, slimy slug one-half of an 
inch long, appearing in June and July, eating the skin of the 
leaves. Spray as soon as they appear with arsenate of lead 
(I), pyrethrum (VII), or hellebore (IV). 

Fire-blight, or Twig-blight. — The foliage on the twigs 
turns brown or black. The dead leaves do not drop. Cut off 
below injury, burning the prunings. 

Leaf-blight, or Spot. — Reddish-brown spots on the leaves, 
which later run together, and finally the leaves drop. The 
fruits have small black spots, which may cause it to crack 
open. Spray with Bordeaux mixture (XVIII) or with lime- 
sulphur wash (Xb), as for scale. 

Rust. — See under Apple. 

Scab. — See under Apple. 

PLUM 

Aphis. — See under Peach. 

Curculio. — The worst enemy of plums and cherries, and is 
destructive to peaches. The beetle has a long snout with 
which it pierces the young fruit just after the petals drop (May, 
June), leaving crescent-shaped scars in which are deposited 
eggs. These hatch, the grub eating toward the stone. It 
causes the fruit to drop, usually when only half-grown. If 
older, the fruit has a drop of gum over the puncture. Spray 
with arsenate of lead (I). It is important to destroy this pest, 
as it helps to disseminate brown-rot. 

Leucanium, or Plum-scale. — A dark brown hemispherical 



HOW AND WHEN TO SPRAY— FRUIT GARDEN 41 

scale, one-eighth of an inch long, which sucks the plant juices. 
Spray with Hme-sulphur wash (Xa) when the trees are dormant. 
Two sprayings during the winter are necessary. 

Brown-rot. — See under Peach. 

Black-knot. — Black, knotty swellings on the twigsjand 
smaller hmbs, that are caused by a fungus. Can be controlled 
by spraying with Bordeaux mixture (XVIII), but it is much 
better handled by cutting out all infested branches, before 
March first, as the spores ripen during the winter and spread 
in early spring. Burn at once all prunings. 

Shot-hole Fungus. — Small, round, purple or brown spots, 
which later drop out, leaving the leaves full of holes. Often 
the leaves turn yellow and drop by midsummer. Easily con- 
trolled by spraying with lime-sulphur wash (Xa), copper sul- 
phate (XIII) before the leaves appear, and lime-sulphur wash 
(Xd) or Bordeaux mixture (XVIII) when the leaves first 
appear, and repeat every two or three weeks, until the fruit 
is three-quarters grown. 

Quince. — See under Apple and Pear for insects and diseases. 

STRAWBERRY 

Leaf-roller. — A small, brownish caterpillar, appearing in 
late May or early June, that folds the leaflets by bringing the 
upper surfaces together and fastening them. They eat the 
leaves, which then turn brown. The best method of destroy- 
ing the pest is to mow and burn the leaves after the fruit has 
been gathered. 

Root-aphis. — These grow on the roots, and are bluish in 
color. Clean plants only should be set. Infested plants can 
be cleaned before setting by fumigating with tobacco (IXc), 
dipping them in tobacco juice, (IXb), or stirring into the 
ground around infested plants tobacco dust (IXa). 

Saw-fly. — Give the same treatment as for raspberry saw-fly. 

Weevil. — A small black-snout beetle similar to the curculio, 
which deposits its eggs in the buds, and then partly gnaws 
off the stems below the buds, causing them to wilt. No remedy. 
Pick off and burn drooping flower stalks. 

Leaf-blight, Leaf-spot, or Rust. — Reddish or purplish 
spots on the leaves. Spray with Bordeaux mixture (XVIII). 
Removing the leaves, as advised for the leaf roller, helps to 
diminish this pest. 



42 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

IN THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

ALL VEGETABLES 

Aphis. — Small black, red or green sucking insects, as big as 
a pin-head, usually the under side of the leaves. Spray with 
whale-oil soap (Vic), tobacco water (IXb), or kerosene emul- 
sion (V). 

Cutworms. — Soft-bodied, hairless grubs, living in the ground 
during the day and foraging at night. They vary in color 
from black to white, and are particularly harmful in March, 
April and May. They cut off the plants at the surface of the 
ground, i. Use poisoned bran mash (III), putting around a 
few days before planting, or protect the plants by placing a 
ring of the mash around each plant. 2. Wrap brown or manila 
paper about each plant before planting, letting the paper 
extend one and one-half inches above and below the ground. 
The paper will last long enough for the plants' stems to become 
tough enough not to be good cutworm food. 

WiREWORMS. — Long, slender, cyHndrical worms, with hard, 
shiny, smooth, yellow bodies, having three pairs of legs close 
to the head. They do much damage in April and May by bor- 
ing into seeds, eating the surface of root-crops, and cutting 
the tops of such crops as they appear above ground. Scatter 
poisoned slices of potatoes about field known to be infested, 
and cover with boards. Soak corn in solution of strychnine 
and sow over field two weeks before planting. 

Flea-beetles. — Small, black, shiny beetles, as big as a pin- 
head, that jump about like fleas. Although a fungicide, the 
best remedy is to coat the plants with Bordeaux mixture 
(XVIII). These are particularly bad on potatoes and tomatoes. 

ASPARAGUS 

Asparagus Beetle. — A slender beetle, one-quarter of an 
inch long, blue-black, with yellow spots on back. Both the 
beetle and its grub (young) attack the tender shoots, eating 
holes in them, and the beetle lays rows of dark eggs upon the 
stalks. The larvae can be killed by dusting fresh air-slaked 
lime on the plants in the early morning while the dew is on. 

Rust. — Blister-like spots on the skin of the stem, under 
which are the brown spores. It causes the plants to have the 
appearance of maturing early. Cut off and burn all infested 



HOW AND WHEN TO SPRAY-VEGETABLES 43 

stalks in the fall, and in August spray three times, ten days 
apart, with Bordeaux mixture (XVIII). 

BEAN 

Seed-corn Maggot. — A small grub which scrapes"^and eats 
seeds, sprouts, and underground stems. Soak the ground, as 
soon as injury is apparent, with hellebore, two ounces to one 
gallon of water. 

Weevil. — A small brownish gray or olive snout-beetle. 
Throw bean seed lightly into water; those so badly damaged 
as to be useless will float. Burn them. Dry the balance, and 
sow at once. 

Anthracnose, or Podspot. — Affects leaves, stems and pods, 
causing unsightly sunken spots. Soak bean seeds one to two 
hours in ammoniacal copper carbonate (XIV) before plant- 
ing. Spray the young plants, when they are two to three 
inches high, with Bordeaux mixture (XVIII). Repeat in ten 
days, and again as soon as the plants have flowered. By 
selecting your own seed from pods which are not infested, 
you can largely avoid this disease. 

Blight. — Attacks lima, as well as common beans. It 
appears on all parts of the plants; small yellowish spots, increas- 
ing in size, and which later turn brown. The disease can eas- 
ily be told from anthracnose, as the spots are not sunken. It 
is less prevalent on fresh land. Burn, in the fall, all bean 
vines, as the bacteria live over winter on the vines. Keep 
the plants free from insects; they help to spread the disease. 

Downy Mildew. — Downy patches on the leaves, that are 
very destructive at times. Spraying with Bordeaux mixture 
(XVIII), as suggested for anthracnose, will prevent it. 

BEETS 

Plant-bugs. — A flattened, sucking bug, one-fourth of an 
inch long; brown, with yellow and black markings. These 
hibernate under grass and rubbish. Burn all rubbish about 
garden. Spray with kerosene emulsion (V). 

Leap-spot. — A leaf-spot fungus attacks the leaves, causing 
them to drop prematurely. Spray with Bordeaux mixture 
(XVIII) every two weeks. 

Scab. — Same as potato scab. Do not grow beets on land 
that has grown scabby beets or potatoes. 



44 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER 

Cabbage-looper. — A green worm, one to one and one- 
fourth inches long, lined with white, which loops like a span- 
worm. Give same treatment as for cabbage-worm. 

Cabbage-maggot. — A small white maggot, one-third of an 
inch long. Sometimes two or three work on the same root. 
Spread a tablespoonful of tobacco dust (IXa) about each 
plant, when planting; renew it once a week for three weeks. 

Cabbage Plusia. — A dark gray moth, deposits pale green- 
ish yellow eggs, singly or in clusters, on the upper surface 
(usually) of cabbage leaves. These hatch, and the resulting 
pale green grubs are, when mature, an inch long. They bore 
holes in the cabbage head. Spray with kerosene emulsion (V), 
adding, if necessary, resin soap (II) to make it stick. Dust 
with pyre thrum (VII), adding, for convenience of handling, 
two parts of flour. 

Cabbage-worm. ^ — Velvety green caterpillar, more than one 
inch long when mature. Present from planting-time on, and 
damages plants by eating holes in the leaves. Spray with 
arsenate of lead (I), to which has been added resin-soap (II). 
After heading commences, use hellebore (IV). 

Harlequin Bug. — One of the " stink " bugs. Shiny black, 
or dark blue, with red or yellow spots. It sucks the sap. Pres- 
ent in numbers in April and May. Plant a trap-crop of mus- 
tard, radish or rape, a few days before planting the crop, 
and, when the bugs have collected on them, spray with pure 
kerosene or kerosene emulsion (V), stock solution, diluted 
with four parts of water. 

Brown- or Black-rot. — This dwarfs the heads or makes 
them one-sided, and, in cases of early infection, there may be 
no head at all. Upon examination of the stumps of affected 
plants, a brown or black ring will be observed, corresponding 
to the woody part of the stem. There is no remedy, preven- 
tive measures only can be used. Plant only on clean land and 
from uninfested seed-beds; avoid a succession of cruciferous 
crops on the same land. Remove at once, and destroy badly 
infested plants and leaves. 

Club-root. — Knotty, twisted root growths which stunt the 
development of the head. It is caused by a slime mold. Rotate 
the crops, never growing cruciferous crops twice in succession 
on the same land. Give land o^ which these crops are to be 



HOW AND WHEN TO SPRAY— VEGETABLES 45 

grown a dressing of fresh stone lime and sulphur (Vllld), using 
two bushels to a piece of land twenty-five by fifty feet (or 
seventy-five to eighty bushels per acre). 

CELERY 

Celery Caterpillar. — A handsome and conspicuous cat- 
erpillar which feeds upon the leaves. They are about two 
inches long, and bright green with broken black bands. Spray 
with arsenate of lead (I) when the plants are small. Hand- 
pick. Poultry and birds will not eat them, probably because 
of the offensive odor they emit. 

Leaf-spot or Blight. — Rusty, brown spots on the leaves 
of celery, appearing in June and July. It can be held in check 
by spraying with Bordeaux mixture (XVIII) every ten days 
until the plants are well advanced, when ammoniacal copper 
carbonate (XIII) should be used, to prevent spotting. 

CORN 

Corn-ear Worm. — Green worms which, when full-grown, 
are an inch long. They feed upon the kernels. Hand-picking 
is the best remedy, and it can be greatly helped by fall plowing. 

Corn-root Aphis. — Root aphis fostered by ants. They can 
be largely reduced by plowing corn-fields in late fall. Frequent 
cultivation with cultivator or disk harrow will also help. 
Treating the seed-corn with the following is also recommended: 
One gallon wood alcohol, one pint oil of lemon. Thoroughly 
mix and sprinkle three ounces or six tablespoonfuls over four 
quarts of seed, before planting. 

Smut. — Black, sooty growth on the ears. No remedy; 
pull out all infested plants. 

CUCUMBER. PUMPKIN. SQUASH. MELON 

Melon-louse. — A greenish black plant louse with or with- 
out wings, that suck the sap. They are present from early 
spring. Spray with kerosene emulsion (V) made of whale-oil 
soap instead of hard soap, and dilute twelve to fifteen times. 
Be sure to get it on the under side of the leaves. 

Squash-bug. — A rusty, black, flattened bug, half an inch 
long, that sucks the plant juices. It has a repulsive, buggy 
odor. They winter-over under boards, leaves, etc., appearing 
in late spring or early summer. Hand-pick during the cooler 



46 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

part of the day when they are sluggish, dropping them into a 
can containing kerosene. In the fall, thousands can be slaught- 
ered by laying shingles or small boards about the garden. The 
bugs will gather on the under side to pass the cool nights, and 
from these traps early morning collections may be made. 

Striped Cucumber-beetle. — A beetle, one-fifth of an inch 
long, straw yellow in color with three black stripes on the back. 
They gnaw the skin of the stem and eat holes in the leaves 
of young plants. Protect by shallow frames covered with mos- 
quito netting. Sprinkle tobacco dust (IXa) on the leaves 
while the dew is on. Spray with Bordeaux mixture (XVIII) 
containing arsenate of lead. 

Anthracnose. — Causes circular dead spots in the leaves, 
one-fourth of an inch in diameter. Use Bordeaux mixture 
(XVIII). This can be checked after it appears. 

Downy Mildew. — Appears late in July or in early August. 
It causes angular yellow spots on the leaves, later the 
whole leaf turns yellow and dies. Commence spraying about 
July 20 with Bordeaux mixture (XVIII), and repeat every 
seven to nine days. 

Leaf-blight. — More particularly destructive to melons. 
Large dead areas are noticed on the leaves, which can be told 
from downy mildew by the tendency to break out, leaving 
holes. Spraying with Bordeaux mixture (XVIII), as for downy 
mildew, will hold it in check for a time at least. Repeat every 
seven to nine days, and be thorough. 

LETTUCE 

Lettuce-rot. — Caused by a rot fungus, and is more fre- 
quent indoors than out. The plants rot off at the surface, and 
the central portion of heading varieties becomes attacked. 
Sterilize the soil with steam. Maintain a temperature of less 
than 50° Fahr, at night; too high a temperature helps to induce 
rot. Ventilate the house thoroughly at all times. Burn all 
infested portions of the plants. 

ONIONS 

Black Onion-fly. — A white maggot, a little larger than the 
onion maggot, that feeds on stored as well as growing onions. 
Fumigate stored onions with bisulphide of carbon for forty- 
eight hours, using one pound of liquid to one hundred cubic 
feet of space to be treated. 



HOW AND WHEN TO SPRAY-VEGETABLES 47 

Onion-Maggot. — The maggot (grub) of a small fly, resem- 
bling the house-fly. The egg is laid on the young plants early 
in the season, and the grub eats into the bulb. The treatment 
for cabbage maggots helps. Kerosene-soaked sand placed about 
the plant also helps. Fertilize freely, to stimulate a strong 
growth. 

Thrips. — Small (one-twentieth of an inch long), active, 
yellowish-winged insects, that jump like fleas, and feed on the 
skin of the leaves. Clean away all weeds from about the gar- 
den, before planting. Spray frequently, when insects are found 
to be present, with kerosene emulsion (V) or tobacco water 
(IXb). 

Smut. — A very bad fungus that attacks the plants when they 
are very young. It appears in the form of a black, dusty pow- 
der on various parts of the plant. Onions started in sterile 
soil, and transplanted outdoors later, will not be attacked. 
Where seeds must be planted outdoors in infected soil, sow 
flowers of sulphur in the rows, or put a dripper attachment on 
the drilling machine and drip a formaldehyde solution in the 
rows. Use one pound forty per cent formaldehyde to twenty- 
five to thirty-three gallons of water, and use fifteen gallons of 
the solution to a lot twenty-five by fifty feet (five hundred to 
seven hundred gallons to the acre). 

PEA 

Pea-louse, or Aphis. — Pea-green in color and one-fourth of 
an inch long. They usually are found clustered about the 
young growth, sucking the sap. Spray frequently with kero- 
sene emulsion (V). 

Powdery Mildew. — A whitish, powdery coating on the 
leaves and stems; also sometimes dark pin-head spots may be 
noticed in these white coverings. Spray with Bordeaux mix- 
ture (XVIII), to which resin-soap (II) should be added to make 
it stick. One to two sprayings will be sufficient. 

POTATO 

Potato-beetle. — A hemispherical beetle, three-eighths of 
an inch long. Light yellow in color with ten black stripes. 
The slugs are round, red, soft-bodied, with black dots. They 
are present all summer and eat the foliage. • Spray every ten 
days or two weeks with arsenate of lead (I). It can be added 
to the Bordeaux mixture used to spray for blight. 



48 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

Potato-blight, Early and Late. — Leaves become black 
and die. They usually have a whitish fungous growth on the 
underside. The late fungus causes the wet rot of stored pota- 
toes. Spray every two weeks with Bordeaux mixture (XVIII). 
The arsenate of lead for the bugs can be added to this, and 
the two sprays made at once. Air-slaked lime in the bins 
among the potatoes will help to check the wet rot of stored 
potatoes. 

Scab. — Causes the dark, scabby spots on the skins of the 
potatoes. Plant clean seed, and avoid the use of stable ma- 
nure on the land. Soak the seed (cut tubers) two hours in for- 
maldehyde (XVI), or one and one-half hours in corrosive sub- 
limate (XVII). 

SQUASH. PUMPKINS 

Squash-vine Borer. — A white grub, one inch long when 
full-grown, that bores in the stem down into the root. The 
borer can usually be found near the level of the soil. Plant as 
early as possible, between what will be the rows of the main 
crop, a trap-crop of summer squashes on the ground where the 
main crop is to be grown, and destroy them later. Cover sev- 
eral places on the stems with soil, so that they can root, so as 
to be sure that the plants will grow even though the borer 
does injury to the root. 

SWEET POTATO 

Tortoise-beetle. — Somewhat resembles the lady-beetle in 
size, and shape; in color they resemble burnished gold. They 
eat holes in the leaves. Spray with arsenate of lead (I) if 
injury threatens to become serious. 

TOMATO 

Tomato-worm, or Horn-worm. — The caterpillar of a sphinx 
moth, A light-green worm having whitish oblique stripes, 
which when full-grown is three inches long and as thick as a 
man's finger. It eats the foliage. Hand-picking is the best 
remedy in the small garden. 

Blossom-drop. — The flowers drop off before becoming fer- 
tilized. The common cause of this is too rich a ground or too 
much water, either of which causes too luxuriant a growth. 
Avoid heavy applications of nitrogenous manures and culti- 
vate thoroughly. 



HOW AND WHEN TO SPRAY— FLOWERS 49 

Leaf- Spot, or Leaf-blight. — Small whitish round spots 
on the leaves, which can be prevented by three or four spray- 
ings with Bordeaux mixture (XVIII). 



IN THE FLOWER GARDEN 

ALL PLANTS INDOORS 

Red-spider. — Very small red mites living on the under sides 
of the leaves and protecting themselves by a web. They are 
not troublesome in humid atmosphere but thrive in arid con- 
ditions. They are particularly troublesome in greenhouses in 
very cold weather. The best remedy is clean water syringed 
on the plants, striking the under side of the leaves with con- 
siderable force, to knock them off. 

White-fly. — A minute white fly which lays its eggs on 
tomato and other plants. The larvae suck the plant juices and 
exude a " honey dew." On this honey dew there lives a mold. 
Fumigating with tobacco regularly will usually hold these in 
check if the houses are free from them in the fall, but, once 
they get bad, the only remedy is to fumigate with hydrocyanic 
acid gas, and, as this is an extremely poisonous article, its use 
is not advised except by those competent to handle it. Its 
effect on plants is different; some can stand a strong gas, while 
others are injured by it. Our Bureau of Information will give 
those who wish to use it specific directions. 

BARBERRY 

Rust. — While not particularly destructive to the barberry 
itself, the plant acts as a host for one form of the wheat rust. 
Do not have barberries growing near wheat fields. 

CARNATION 

Aphis. — Pale-green plant-lice or aphis found on the stems 
and leaves sucking the plant's sap. Fumigate the greenhouse 
regularly — twice a week, two evenings in succession — with 
tobacco (IXc) or any of the tobacco compounds now on the 
market. Syringe the plants the morning after, to knock off 
dead and stunned aphis. 

Anthracnose. — Grayish brown sunken spots on the leaves. 
Spray the plants with ammoniacal copper carbonate solution 



50 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

(XIV) frequently. Maintain good growing conditions at all 
times. 

Rust. — An exceedingly serious carnation disease. Little 
blisters which open, giving off reddish brown spores. The 
treatment is more preventive than curative. Spray the 
plants every week or ten days with ammoniacal copper car- 
bonate (XIV). Keep the plants in good condition; avoid 
checks of any sort. Syringe the plants in the morning only, 
so that the leaves will be dry by nightfall. Pick off all dis- 
eased leaves. 

CHRYSANTHEMUM 

Aphis. — Black plant-lice living on the under side of the 
leaves, sucking sap. Fumigate with tobacco (IXc) twice a 
week, as directed for carnation aphis. Do not fumigate after 
the buds have shown color. 

Leaf-spot. T-Brown or black spots on the leaves, appearing 
in September. They grow larger, causing the leaf to drop off. 
Spray with ammoniacal copper carbonate (XIV) every ten 
days or two weeks; keep the greenhouse well ventilated. On 
dull days in the early fall, have a little fire heat in the house 
and ventilate the house. 

Powdery Mildew. — A powdery white growth on the 
leaves, which can be held in check by dusting the leaves with 
flowers of sulphur (VIIIc). It will not occur if good ventilation 
is always maintained and there are no checks given the plants. 

DAHLIA 

Tarnished Plant-bugs. — The same as infests the straw- 
berry. The second brood appears in July and August on dah- 
lias, asters, sunflowers, and other fall flowers. Hand-pick; 
dust plants with pyrethrum powder (VII) or spray with ker- 
osene emulsion (V). 

HOLLYHOCK 

Rust. — The fungus will be recognized by dense yellowish 
or brownish dusty spots on the underside of the leaves. It is 
a serious disease. Spray the plants every ten days or two 
weeks with Bordeaux mixture (XVIII) from the time the leaves 
show above ground until they are about to flower. Continue 
after the plants are through flowering. 



HOW AND WHEN TO SPRAY-FLOWERS 51 

HOUSE PLANTS 

Aphis. — The same as described for carnations and chrysan- 
themums. In the house, spray with soapsuds; this is the 
easiest and cleanest way of fighting the pest. 

Mealy-bugs. — Soft-bodied insects that protect themselves 
with a sort of woolly wax. They are more partial to coleus, 
but infest other house-plants. Drop one drop of kerosene oil 
or alcohol on each insect by using a wooden toothpick. 

Nematodes. — A parasitic worm infesting roses, begonias, 
and sometimes other plants. They cause small bead-like galls 
upon the roots. The leaves dry up. There is no remedy. 
Destroy plants growing in infested soil, and the soil too. Use 
fresh soil, potting plants next winter. 

Scale Insects. — There are several small scale insects infest- 
ing house-plants. One is small, round and white; the other is 
a brown, hemispherical one, like the plum scale. These can be 
cleaned off by rubbing with a sponge, the more obstinate ones 
by scratching with the finger-nail. 

MORNING-GLORY 

Tortoise-beetle. — The same as on the sweet potato. 
Leaf-cutter. — A yellowish green caterpillar with black 
spots, about three inches long. Spray with arsenate of lead (I). 

PELARGONIUM, GERANIUM 

iDropsy. — Dead spots on the leaves which, before they die, 
will have wet-looking places on the under side of the leaf, 
which appear translucent when held between the observer 
and the light. This is caused by too much water in the soil. 

ROSE 

Aphis. — Same as carnation aphis. 

Leaf-hopper. — A small greenish bug, which jumps around 
lively and sucks the foliage. Spray with kerosene emulsion (V). 

Rose-chafer. — The brown beetle found eating the rose 
flowers and buds. Hand-picking is the best, but spraying 
with arsenate of lead (I), one-half pound to five gallons of 
water, will help to hold them in check. They appear in June 
and are worst on sandy soils. 

Nematodes. — See under House-plants. 

Rose-scale. — See description under Raspberry. 

Slugs. — A green slug, or worm, which appears late in May, 



52 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

eating holes in the leaves. Spray with arsenate of lead (I), or 
a simpler plan, where there is water under pressure, is to 
syringe the bushes with water, knocking them off. 

Black-spot. — This is particularly bad on roses grown indoors. 
There are black spots a quarter of an inch or more in diameter, 
which cause the leaves to sicken, turning yellow and later 
dropping off. Spray with ammoniacal copper carbonate (XIV) 
once a week. 

Mildew. — Powdery growth on the leaves, the edges also 
curl up and the leaves become crinkly. It is caused by poor 
cultural conditions — -house too cool, or draughts strike the 
plant. Dust flowers of sulphur (VIIIc) over the leaves, or 
moisten with water (Vlllb) and put it on the heating-pipes. 

SNAPDRAGON 

Anthracnose. — Brown spots on the leaves. It sometimes 
kills the plants. Spray with Bordeaux mixture (XVIII) when 
the spots are first noticed, and give one or two subsequent 
sprayings a week or ten days apart. 

SWEET-PEA 

Aphis. — See under Pea, 

TOMATO 

Point-rot. — This is more troublesome on tomatoes grow- 
ing in greenhouses. A black rot occurs at the point where the 
flower was attached. This is caused by dryness. It will be 
particularly bad on benches where the pipes are near the 
bottom of the benches and the soil thin. 

VIOLET 

Aphis. — On the violet they are brown, and infest the crown 
of the plant as well as the stems and under side of the leaves. 
Spray with tobacco (IXb) or fumigate with tobacco (IXc), 
or spray with whale-oil soap (Vic). 

Cutworm. — -These cut off and eat the leaves. Poisoned 
bran mash (III) is effective. Do not use fresh soil in the benches 
or frames for growing violets. If it must be used, treat it as 
follows: Add tankage to the soil at the rate of forty pounds 
to the cubic yard, and pile it up and let it stand. It will gen- 
erate heat sufficient to kill all the grubs. Let it stand until 
cool before using 



HOW AND WHEN TO SPRAY— TREES 53 

Saw-fly. — A dull, olive grub that eats the surface of the 
leaves. Spray with arsenate of lead (I) or fumigate with 
tobacco (IXc). 

Leaf-tyer. — A small green worm, eating the leaf, that can 
be held in check in the same way as the slug of the saw-fly. 

Leaf-spot, Leaf-blight. — Round white aphis with black 
outer wings, the whole one-eighth of an inch in diameter. 
First pick off all infested leaves. Spray with Bordeaux mix- 
ture (XVIII) or, if the plants are in flower, with ammoniacal 
copper carbonate (XIV). 



ALL INSECTS DESTROYING TREES AND 
SHRUBS 

The Brown-tailed Moth is a serious pest in the New 
England states. This pest winters over in the caterpillar 
stage in nests made of leaves. Cut off all these and burn them. 
The full-grown caterpillar is about two inches long, reddish 
brown in color, with a broken white stripe on each side, and 
two red dots on the back near the rear. These can be killed 
by spraying the trees with arsenate of lead (I). 

The Bag-worm. — You can see this in winter; numerous 
dark gray conical bags hanging to twigs of the arborvitae, 
soft maple, locust or other trees. The damage this insect does, 
besides feeding on the leaves, is to girdle the twigs. The fas- 
tening around the twig is so tough it does not rot easily. Col- 
lect the cocoons during the winter, as this is the best method 
of attacking this pest 

The Gypsy Moth. — Eats the foliage of any plant it comes 
to. The oval egg masses can be seen in winter at the base of 
trees and in other places, one and one-half inches long and half 
as wide. Destroy them. To protect trees from the caterpillars, 
wrap the trunk with burlap or tanglefoot, to stop their climb- 
ing the trees. Spray with arsenate of lead (I) in late spring 
and early summer. 

The San Jose Scale. — See description under apple. In 
addition to the fruit trees, this scale infests most seriously the 
Juneberry, hawthorn, privet, poplar, the various species of 
prunus, rose, willow, ash, lilac, osage orange, and elm. Spray 
the trees, when dormant, with lime-sulphur wash (Xa). 



54 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

White Tussock-moth. — This is most commonly found on 
lindens, horse-chestnuts, elms, and maples, but has damaged 
many kinds of trees. The young caterpillars appear in May 
and eat the leaves. This insect does not do sufficient damage 
yet to pay to spray for it, but effective work can be done 
against it by collecting during the winter the frothy egg masses 
found on the bark or on dead leaves, and burning them. The 
caterpillar is about an inch and a half long, and has four white 
tussocks on his back and two long, hairy horns on the forward 
end, and one on the rear end, of his body. 

ELM 

The Elm-leaf Beetle is doing much damage to elms in 
the northeastern states. In the spring, the beetles come out of 
their winter quarters and eat holes in the leaves. Spray with 
arsenate of lead (I). Repeat this about June i, getting it on 
the under side of the leaves, so that the larvae or grub will 
get it. Later in the season, when the larvae are going to pupate, 
i. e., go into cocoons, they drop from the tree to the ground, 
and some may be found on the trunk. The pupae are yellow. 
Spray the trunks of the trees and the ground under the trees 
at this time with kerosene emulsion. During the winter and 
early spring, search attics, belfries, cupolas, for dormant 
beetles, collecting and burning them. 

LOCUST 

Locust-leaf Miner. — This insect eats the skin of the leaf 
so badly that in August the trees are as sear and brown as if 
scorched by fire. Spray with arsenate of lead (I) in the spring, 
just as soon as the leaves are out, that the adult beetle may 
be killed before the egg-laying season, 

LINDEN 

Putnam Scale. — See under Maple. 

MAPLE 

Cottony Maple Scale. — It is easily recognized by the 
presence of the white cottony masses which insects exude. 
These cottony masses protect the eggs. In winter, spray with 
kerosene emulsion (V), diluting the stock with only six to ten 
parts of Iwater. 



HOW AND WHEN TO SPRAY— TREES 55 

Putnam Scale. — Very similar to San Jose scale. Usually 
only trees in cities are infested. Spray, when the trees are 
dormant, with lime-sulphur wash (Xa). 

MAPLE. ELM 

Leopard-moth. — The larvae of this insect are particularly 
destructive about cities. They bore into the twigs and go on 
down into the larger branches. They ultimately damage the 
limbs so badly as to kill the branches, or weaken them so that 
they are broken off by high winds. Hunt the burrows and 
put carbon bisulphide in them, stopping up the end with putty. 
Small branches should be pruned off. 

ROSE RUGOSA 

The Rose-scale. — See description under Raspberry. Al- 
though it infests all roses, this one is more subject to it than 
the others. Spray with kerosene emulsion (V) late in May, 
or with lime-sulphur wash (Xa), when the bushes are dormant. 



SPRAYING FORMULAS 

The following formulas will help to keep your plants free 
from insects and plant diseases. 

INSECTICIDES 

The insects infesting cultivated plants are divided into two 
general classes, — chewing insects and sucking insects, — and 
the remedies and exterminators are made to suit the kind of 
insect to be attacked. 

FOR CHEWING INSECTS 

I. Arsenic in the form of Paris green or arsenate of lead. 
The latter, arsenate of lead, is so much preferable to Paris 
green that formulas for it only are given. Paris green, if used 
in too large a quantity, will burn the plants; arsenate of lead 
will not, even though used in large quantities, and it remains 
in suspension much longer than Paris green. It is also sold 
under such trade names as Disparene. Arsenate of lead is 
white and comes in paste form. It is usually used at the rate 
of six ounces to five gallons of water, but can be used at the 
rate of one pound to five gallons. 

II. Resin Soap, used to make arsenical poisons stick to 
smooth surfaces, like cabbage. Five pounds pulverized resin, 
one pound concentrated lye, one pint fish or any animal oil, five 
gallons water. 

To make, put the resin and oil and a gallon of water in an 
iron kettle and heat; when the resin has dissolved, add the 
lye, stirring the solution; add the balance of the water and boil 
the whole for two hours, or until the solution, when put in 
cold water, will make a clear, amber-colored liquid. The solu- 
tion, when boiling, should be kept up to five gallons by adding 
water to make up for loss by evaporation. To use, dilute one 
pint of the soap with sixteen pints of water, and add three 
pints of milk of lime or whitewash, and one-fourth pound of 
Paris green, or it can be diluted with Bordeaux mixture. 

III. Poisoned Bran Mash. One ounce white arsenic, one to 
two ounces brown sugar, six to ten ounces bran. 

56 



SPRAYING FORMULAS— INSECTICIDES 57 

Mix these together, and add enough water to make a wet 
but not sloppy mash. This is used as a poison bait. 

IV. Hellebore, an internal poison for insects, but not to 
man. It is used in place of Paris green or arsenate of lead 
where there is danger of the poison remaining on the parts of 
plants to be eaten. Dust dry on the leaves, especially the under 
side, when the dew is on, or sprinkle the leaves to insure its 
sticking. As a solution it can be sprayed on, using one ounce 
to one to three gallons of water. 

FOR SUCKING INSECTS 

V. Kerosene Emulsion. One-half pound hard soap, two gal- 
lons kerosene, one gallon water. 

Shave up the soap and dissolve it in the water, which should 
boil. Remove from the stove and, while still boiling, add the 
kerosene and thoroughly churn it. The best way to do this is 
by means of a bucket spray pump. Churn until it becomes a 
soft, butter-like mass. This is a stock solution; to use, dilute 
with ten to twelve parts of water. For scale insects in winter, 
stock solution can be used without dilution. 

VI. Whale-oil Soap (a) As a winter spray against scale 
insects, use two pounds to one gallon of water. Trunk and 
branches can be painted by hand in summer, but this strength 
will injure the leaves. Only one appHcation of this strength 
should be used in a season. 

(b) One pound to one gallon of water. 

(c) One pound to eight to ten gallons of water. 

VII. Pyrethrum, or Insect Powder. — Burn in the house 
to kill fleas, flies, mosquitoes and cockroaches. As it deterio- 
rates rapidly, it must be kept in a tight can. To spray, use 
one-fifth of an ounce (100 grains) in two gallons of hot water. 

VIII. Sulphur, (a) One ounce to one gallon of water. 

(b) Place the flowers of sulphur on steam or hot-water pipe. 

(c) Dust on leaves. 

(d) Flowers of sulphur, one part; lime twenty to forty parts. 

IX. Tobacco (a) Dust. Sprinkle over cucurbits to drive 
away the striped beetle. Work it in the ground about plants 
infested with root-lice. In case of a tree, use one and one- 
half to two pounds. 



58 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

(6) Stems. Make a decoction, using one pound to two gal- 
lons of hot water. Let it stand for several hours in a tight 
vessel. It can be greatly improved by adding one ounce of 
pyrethrum. Dilute to use with three to five parts of water. 

(c) Fumigate with stems or with one of the tobacco extracts 
now on the market. If stems are used, care must be taken 
not to burn the foliage by too strong a smoke. 

X. Lime-sulphur Wash. — This is being recommended and 
used by horticulturists in place of Bordeaux mixture for the 
treatment of plant diseases, such as apple scab, as well as for 
the San Jose scale, for which it was first used. Commercial 
lime-sulphur wash ready to use, except to dilute with water, 
according to the directions, can be bought, and is much han- 
dier to use than home-boiled. A home-boiled concentrated 
solution can be made as follows: One pound lime, two and 
one-fourth pounds sulphur, one gallon water. 

Use an iron kettle, slake the lime in a little water, and add 
the sulphur when the Hme begins to slake. Sift the sulphur in, 
and be sure there are no lumps. Boil hard for over an hour, 
or until the sulphur is dissolved, but it must boil for forty- 
five minutes, at least. Add water as necessary, and, when 
about finished, dilute with water, preferably hot water, to 
make one gallon. This should have a specific gravity of 1.30. 

(a) For winter, spray for San Jose scale. Dilute with nine 
parts of water (or to 1.03 specific gravity). 

(b) For spring, spray for apple, pear and quince, to prevent 
scab. Dilute with twenty to thirty parts of water (or, to i.oi 
to 1. 015 specific gravity). 

(c) For summer, spray for apple, pear and quince. Dilute 
one part of the stock solution with thirty to forty parts of 
water. 

(d) For peaches, plums and cherries, for the brown rot, 
dilute with fifty to sixty parts of water (or 1.006 specific grav- 
ity). 

XII. Carbolic Soap. — Two pounds of soft soap; dilute 
this with rain-water to consistency of paint, and add one 
ounce of crude carbolic acid. 



SPRAYING FORMULAS-FUNGICIDES S9 

FUNGICIDES 

XIII. Copper Sulphate.— For use on dormant trees, dis- 
solve three ounces in five gallons of water, 
|. !XIV. Ammoniacal Copper Carbonate.— Dissolve five 
ounces of copper carbonate in three pints of ammonia (26° 
Beaume); dilute for use with forty-five gallons of water. The 
stock solution will keep indefinitely if kept in a tightly corked 
bottle. This will not stain the plants, as will Bordeaux mix- 
ture. 

XV. Potassium Sulphide, or Liver of Sulphur.— Dis- 
solve one-half ounce in one gallon of water. This loses strength 
with age; mix it fresh. 

XVI. Formalin.— For potato scab, one pint to fifteen gal- 
lons of water. 

XVII. Corrosive Sublimate.— Potato scab, two ounces 
to two gallons of water. 

XVIII. Bordeaux Mixture.— In five gallons of water, 
dissolve five ounces of copper sulphate by hanging in a bag in 
the top of the tub, and five and one-half ounces of good stone 
lime, and stir thoroughly. Strain into sprayer and add, when 
an insecticide is wanted, as well, three to six ounces of arsen- 
ate of lead. 

XIX. Iron-sulphate.— For use on dormant plants only. 
Dissolve in three quarts of hot water as much iron-sulphate 
as the water will hold, then add one ounce sulphuric acid. 





FERTILIZING THE SMALL GARDEN 

nrO maintain high fertility in the vegetable garden is a very 
serious problem for some amateur gardeners, for one of 
two reasons: either good stable manure is not available, or, — 
and a foolish reason, — they object to using it. Stable manure is 
the best fertilizer the amateur can use, but in some localities it 
really is hard to get, for fresh manure, especially fresh horse 
manure, does not give, under ordinary circumstances, nearly such 
good results as does well-decayed manure. Stable manure con- 
tains a great deal of humus — vegetable matter — in addition to 
its fertilizing value. This vegetable matter in the soil is abso- 
lutely necessary, for without it the soil is unable to perform its 
proper functions. 

The soil is really a great big laboratory that is constantly 
changing the raw material into forms that are available for use 
by the plants. Practically all soils contain sufficient phosphoric 
acid and potash to supply the ordinary demand upon it for 
plant food. But unless there is a large amount of humus in the 
soil, the bacteria which help to convert it into an available form 
cannot exist. 

If a good stable manure is used, it will rarely be necessary to 
resort to any commercial fertilizers to enrich the soil. For those 
who are unable to secure stable manure, humus must be supplied 
in another form. It can easily be done by growing such plants 
as clover or rye, and plowing them under in the spring. The 
way to do this is to sow these crops in the summer time at the 
time when cultivation is about over in the garden. For instance, 
in the cornfield it should be sown at the time of last cultivation, 
which is usually early in July. It should be sown among pota- 
toes just before the plants actually cover the ground between 
the rows, so that the last cultivation will cover the seed. With 
other crops it can be sown as soon as the ground is clear. Where 
the sowing can be made in July, use crimson clover and hairy 
vetch or mammoth clover, using one-half of crimson clover and 
the other half composed of one or the other of the plants just 
mentioned. Where the sowing must be delayed until late in the 
season, put in rye. The clovers and vetches are better than the 
rye because they have the power of fixing the free atmospheric 

(60) 



FERTILIZING THE SMALL GARDEN 6i 

nitrogen, making it available for their own use, and, when turned 
under, for the use of other plants. In addition to this green 
manure which is turned under in the spring at plowing- time, 
some commercial fertilizer must be used. The amount to use 
will vary according to the plants grown, and to the kind of soil 
in which the plants are grown. The best way to determine the 
amount is by experimenting with the piece of ground on which 
the garden is planted. This, however, is something which most 
amateurs have neither the time nor the space to determine. 
For the ordinary vegetable garden, 150 to 300 pounds of nitrate 
of soda, 200 to 400 pounds of muriate of potash, and the same 
quantity of acid phosphate will give good results. This will 
mean that every square yard should receive from one-half to 
one ounce of nitrate of soda, and two-thirds to one and two- 
thirds ounces of muriate of potash and of acid phosphate. 
These three fertilizers are the raw material, and can be purchased 
from any seed store, and, in many cases, from other agents. A 
ready-mixed commercial fertilizer can also be bought from the 
same sources. If this is done, one which is guaranteed to con- 
tain four per cent of nitrogen, eight per cent of phosphoric acid 
and ten per cent of potash, that is available for plant use, will 
give good results. 

The amount to use of the above fertilizer will vary according 
to the crop. For instance, asparagus would need 1,000 to 1,500 
pounds per acre; beans and peas, 500 to 600 pounds; beets and 
turnips, 1,000 to 1,500 pounds, but in the small garden it will not 
pay for one to attempt to give these exact amounts to the various 
crops. A general application of 1,000 pounds to the acre, or 
about three to four ounces to the square yard, will give suffi- 
cient fertilizer for most plants. It should be given at the time 
of preparing the ground for the crop. In addition to this, the 
various crops should have, from time to time, during the season, 
a supplementary application of one or more of the raw materials. 
For instance, beans and peas should receive 220 to 230 pounds 
of phosphoric acid to the acre, or a little less than an ounce to the 
square yard, and 65 to 75 pounds of potash per acre, or about a 
quarter of an ounce to the square yard; beets and turnips, 50 to 
100 pounds of nitrate of soda to an acre, or about a third of an 
ounce to the square yard, and this can be repeated two or three 
times while the plants are still young; cabbage, cauliflower, and 
Brussels sprouts should be given a supplemental top-dressing 



62 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

of loo pounds of nitrate of soda and 200 pounds of super-phos- 
phate per acre, or one-third of an ounce of nitrate of soda and 
two-thirds of an ounce of super-phosphate to the square yard. 
Cucumbers, watermelons, muskmelons, pumpkins and squashes 
should be given further dressings, in addition, of course, to the 
commercial fertilizer given at the time of planting, of 200 to 
300 pounds per acre of cottonseed meal, 100 to 200 pounds of 
dried blood, or 300 to 400 pounds of tankage, or, an ounce of 
cottonseed meal, two-thirds of an ounce of dried blood, and 
one and one-third ounces of tankage to the square yard. 

To reinforce the original fertilization when growing celery, 
frequent applications of nitrate of soda at the rate of 100 
pounds to the acre, or one-third of an ounce to the square 
yard, will help to induce a strong leaf growth. This can be 
given several times during the season. The same quantities 
wou)d apply very well, also, to eggplant, spinach, lettuce, and 
rhubarb. The best time to use these commercial fertilizers is 
in the spring when the ground is being prepared. They are usu- 
ally harrowed into the soil, having been spread after the ground 
was plowed, although some people seem to prefer to put their 
commercial fertilizers in the hill under such crops as corn and 
potatoes. 

In recommending the use of commercial fertilizers in the vege- 
table garden, I do so only because some people cannot get manure, 
but barnyard manure will give the best results. Commercial 
fertilizers, without humus in the soil, act only as a stimulant 
and they do not give the results, — that is, one does not get one's 
money's worth from them unless there is a good supply of humus. 

The fertilizing of the garden composes one-half of what must 
be done to raise the crop; the other half is tillage. The ground 
must be thoroughly worked before planting, — that is, it should be 
worked deep and carefully pulverized, and after the crops are 
growing, the surface of the soil should be cultivated once a week. 
These cultivations should not be deep; an inch or an inch and 
one-half is sufi&cient, the object being to maintain a dust mulch 
upon the surface to prevent the evaporation of soil moisture. 
This can also be avoided by mulching the soil with such mate- 
rial as salt hay or straw. But the mulch can be maintained by 
cultivation much more easily and cheaply, in most instances, 
than by the use of mulches. With the proper tools it will be an 
easy matter to maintain this dust mulch. 



PLANTING TABLE FOR BULBS 



Variety 



Belladonna Lily 

Poppy Anemone 

Spirea 

Mariposa Tulip 

Glory-of-the-Snow 

Meadow Saffron' 

Lily-of-the-Valley 

Powell's Crinum 

Spring Crocus 

Fall Crocus 

Bleeding-Heart 

Winter Aconite 

Eremurus 

Dog's-tooth Violet 

Freesia 

Crown Imperial 

Snake's-Head 

Snowdrop 

Early-flowering Gladiolus 

Christmas Rose 

Amaryllis 

Summer Hyacinth ... 

Dutch Hyacinth 

Italian Hyacinth 

Roman Hyacinth 

Hardy Gloxinia 

German Iris 

English Iris 

Spanish Iris 

African Corn Lily . . . 
Red-Hot Poker 



Tender 

or 
Hardy 



T. 
H. 

H. 
H. 
H. 
H. 

H. 
H. 

H. 

H. 
H. 
H. 
H. 
H. 

T. 
H. 

H. 

H. 
T. 
H. 
T. 
H. 
H. 
T. 
H. 
H. 
H. 
H. 
H. 
H. 
H. 



Color 



Red to white 

Red, blue, 

white 

White, pink 

Yellow 

Blue 

Purple, pink, 
white 
White 

Pink 

Yellow, pur- 
ple, white 
Lilac 

Red 

Yellow 

Rosy 

Rosy purple, 

lilac 

White 

Red, orange. 

Yellow 
Purple and 

green 

White 

Red, white 

White 

Red 

White 

All colors 

White 

All colors 

Purplish rose 

All colors 

Blue, white 

Blue, yellow 

All colors 

Red 



Depth to 

Plant 

(inches) 



2-3 
2-3 



3-6 
2-3 



4 

3-5 
I 

4 
4 
3 
3 
3 
3 
4 



Distance 
Apart 
(inches) 



50 

3 



3-4 

3-4 

36 

6 

48 



6-8 



3 
6 

12 
6 
6 

5-^ 
3 
6 

18 

18 
5 
4 
2 

24 



Time to 
Force 
(weeks) 



6 

8-10 

12-14 
10 



16 



2-3 

8 



3-4 
4 
4 



63 



64 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

PLANTING TABLE FOR BULBS, continued 



Variety 



Tender 

or 
Hardy 



Color 



Leopard Lily 

Snowflake 

Gold-banded Lily 

Canadian Lily 

Ascension Lily 

Thunberg's Lily 

Easter Lily 

Spotted Lily 

Turk's-cap Lily 

Tiger Lily 

Grape Hyacinth 

Narcissus bulbocodium 

Narcissus incomparabilis 

Jonquils 

Narcissus poeticus . . 

Narcissus Pseudo - Nar- 
cissus 

Paper-White Narcissus 

Arabian Star of Bethle- 
hem 

Bermuda Buttercup . . 

Persian Ranunculus . 

Calla 

Squills 

Wood Hyacinth 

Windflower 

Autumn Dafiodil 

Wake-robin 

Montbretia 



Cottage Tulip ... 

Early Tulip 

Scarborough Lily 



H. 
H. 
H. 

H. 
H. 

T. 
H. 

H. 
H. 

H. 
H. 
H. 
H. 
H. 

H. 
T. 

T. 
T. 
T. 

T. 
H. 
H. 

T. 
H. 
H. 
H. 

H. 
H. 
T. 



Depth to 
Plant 

(inches) 



Yellow, tip- 
ped green 
White 

White 

Yellow, 

orange, red 

White 

Yellow, 

orange, red 

White 

Pink, red 

white 

Orange, red 

Red, spotted 

purple 
Blue, white 

Yellow 

Yellow, white 

Yellow 

White 

Yellow, white 
White, yellow 

White 

Yellow 

Yellow, red 

White 

Blue 

Blue, white, 

pink 
Red, yellow 

Yellow 

White 

Orange 

crimson 

All but blue 

All but blue 

Blood-red 



8 

6 

8 

1-3 

5 
4 
5 
6 



Distance 

Apart 
(inches) 



12 

2-3 
3 
6 

3 
4 

5 

3 

3 
3 
3 

12 

4 
4 

3 
6 
6 
6 

5 

5 
6 



17 19li 



JVjii* 



One copy del. to Cat. Div. 



MAH 17 1911 



